Before Glenn Martens created the couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, he was the creative director of Y/Project to release the brand’s autumn/winter 2022 collection. The series is themed around Trompe-l’œil, hallucinatory images produced from vast spaces as a way to flirt and question the notion of gender, something Jean Paul Gaultier has been doing for years and something Glenn Martens is keen to explore “We took one of his most iconic prints and interpreted it in a Y/Project way,” he told Vogue. “It’s very layered, with a men’s print and a women’s print and stacked on top of each other.”
The collection showcases a number of thermal-like images combined with Trompe-l’œil techniques to “peek” into the figure below, such as the muscular prints on suits and the male genitals in the crotch of short skirts and trousers. This was followed by a full complement of Y/Project’s usual denim pieces, including an oversized coat that joined a pleated skirt and a Double-denim look, the latter interpreted as a trompe l’oeil in the house’s classic twists and rearrangements.
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