Maison Margiela Bets on the Chinese Market

Maison Margiela has expanded its global presence by hosting its first runway show outside of Paris since the house began holding shows in 1988. The event took place in Shanghai on April 1, 2026, as part of Shanghai Fashion Week.

The presentation unveiled the autumn/winter 2026/2027 collection, which combined ready-to-wear and Artisanal pieces. According to reporting from Complex, the collection paid homage to Parisian flea market culture, utilizing materials such as beeswax, porcelain, and frayed tapestries to recreate the appearance of vintage wear.

The designs featured Edwardian-crafted knit sweaters, raw-cut wool dresses, and roomy waistcoats. Accessories included wax-coated metallic jewelry, a wrapped 5AC bag, and the men’s Float shoe in patent and distressed brushed leather designs.

Strategic Expansion into China

The move to Shanghai is part of a broader effort to optimize development in the growing Chinese market, where the brand first entered in 2019. Gaetano Sciuto, the CEO of Maison Margiela, indicated that the brand’s focus had shifted toward China for several weeks to establish a strong foundation.

Creative director Glenn Martens stated to FashionUnited that it was really important for us to do it properly given the brand’s history in the region.

The Shanghai show served as the launch for MaisonMargiela/folders, a twelve-day series of exhibitions and activations spanning four different Chinese cities.

The MaisonMargiela/folders Exhibition Tour

The brand’s initiative includes a road trip across China designed to blend collections with public activations. The tour began in Shanghai with an exhibition on Yandang Road in the Huangpu district. This initial display featured 58 original pieces from the Artisanal line, including works by founder Martin Margiela, John Galliano, and Glenn Martens.

Following the Shanghai event, the tour moves to three other cities with specific thematic focuses:

• Beijing: An exhibition titled Anonymity: Our History of Masks will be held from April 7 to April 12 at the Zhengyici Peking Opera Theatre.
• Chengdu: An exhibition titled Tabi: Collectors will run from April 9 to April 13.
• Shenzhen: An experience titled Bianchetto: Atelier Experience will take place on April 11 and April 12.

While most of these events are open to the public without appointments, the Shenzhen experience is the only exception to this policy.

Revisiting House Codes

The autumn/winter 2026/2027 collection and the accompanying exhibitions celebrate the founding codes of the house. These include the use of bianchetto white, the assembly of disparate materials, the fusion of fabrics, and the philosophy of anonymity represented through masks.

To further the brand’s engagement with its history and the public, Maison Margiela has also launched a digital archive initiative alongside the Shanghai show.

On April 2, 2026, the brand followed the runway show with a presentation that included menswear and womenswear ready-to-wear, the Artisanal collection, and the autumn/winter 2026/2026 pre-collection.