New York Fashion Week is on the horizon, and with it comes a renewed focus on the US market from major fashion houses. But beyond the runway shows and front row appearances, a deeper conversation is brewing about the industry’s response to global events, diversity commitments, and the evolving relationship between fashion and its consumers.
PR powerhouse KCD, a firm with a 35-year history navigating the complexities of the fashion world, is back working with Alexander McQueen in the US. Rachna Shah, KCD’s CEO, shared insights into the brand’s renewed partnership and the broader shifts impacting the industry. “We have a long history with the house, since the days when it was integrated into the Gucci Group,” Shah explained. “We started working with Lee [Alexander McQueen] on all his Paris shows and through the transition with Sarah [Burton], which was such a personally meaningful time for the brand. So it’s wonderful to be a part of the brand again on their next journey.” The recent tribute to McQueen at the Grammys, with Lady Gaga’s homage and The Marías wearing custom designs, underscored the enduring legacy of the late designer.
KCD’s previous work with McQueen paused during the transition from Sarah Burton to Seán McGirr, a common occurrence when brands undergo significant creative resets. Shah emphasized the cyclical nature of these relationships, highlighting the importance of adaptability within the industry.
The increasing attention brands are paying to the US market is a notable trend. Chanel’s pre-fall collection in New York and Moncler’s Grenoble show in Aspen are prime examples. Shah attributes this shift to a combination of factors, including the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic and the rise of e-commerce. “The US has been a big focus for brands for quite some time now,” she said. “Obviously Covid happened, and there have been shifts from a global perspective. But it’s a big country.”
Previously, the US market was often viewed through a coastal lens – New York, Los Angeles, and Miami. However, brands have begun to recognize the value of customers beyond these major hubs. “Brands started to understand the value of the customer in between,” Shah explained. “I think a lot of that has to do with e-commerce. Now they understood where their customers lived, where they vacationed… And then with Covid, groups of people moved out of the capitals because they could work remotely.” This understanding has prompted brands to expand their reach and engage with a more geographically diverse consumer base.
However, the industry’s focus on commerce exists alongside a backdrop of global unrest and political turmoil. Shah acknowledged the dissonance between the often-glamorous world of fashion and the realities of the current geopolitical climate. “It is devastating,” she stated. “And it is in these times that art, culture and storytelling become so important.” She anticipates that New York Fashion Week will reflect this tension, with designers expressing their perspectives on current events through their collections. “I think we’re going to see across the season how the unrest is affecting that emotional output. But underneath it all, this is a business, and the economy of it needs to move forward. So it’s about how you do that while still holding space for what’s going on in this country.”
Beyond the immediate concerns of the political climate, the industry is also grappling with a concerning trend: a decline in size inclusivity, particularly in menswear. A recent report indicated a further decrease in size inclusivity for Fall/Winter 2026, alongside a broader rollback of diversity commitments across the industry. Shah didn’t directly address the reasons for this decline, but the issue highlights a broader challenge for brands – balancing business objectives with social responsibility.
The conversation surrounding diversity and inclusivity extends beyond size. The industry faces ongoing scrutiny regarding representation across race, gender, and other dimensions of identity. The rollback of commitments suggests a potential shift in priorities, raising questions about the long-term sustainability of these efforts.
As New York Fashion Week approaches, the industry finds itself at a crossroads. Brands are navigating a complex landscape of economic pressures, geopolitical events, and evolving consumer expectations. KCD’s Rachna Shah’s insights offer a glimpse into the challenges and opportunities that lie ahead, emphasizing the need for adaptability, cultural sensitivity, and a commitment to both creativity, and commerce. The coming shows will be a crucial test of how the industry responds to these forces, and whether it can successfully balance the demands of the market with the need for meaningful engagement with the world around it.
The earned media value generated by fashion weeks continues to be a key metric, with Autumn/Winter 2025 generating $768 million, a 9% dip from Spring/Summer 2025 but a substantial 46% increase from Autumn/Winter 2024, according to data from Lefty and Karla Otto. Paris Fashion Week remains the most powerful, generating $494 million, up 13% from Spring/Summer 2025.
