MERCOGLIANO, Italy – The Church of the Annunziata in Mercogliano, a town near Naples, recently hosted an annual pilgrimage, La Juta, drawing hundreds of participants identifying as femminielli – a traditional, nonbinary gender identity with deep roots in Neapolitan culture. The event, held on , coinciding with the Catholic feast of Candlemas, blended religious ritual with local folklore and served as a powerful affirmation of identity for the LGBTQ+ community.
The pilgrimage is a centuries-old tradition, though it faced disruption in the past – notably being barred from the Sanctuary of Montevergine in – and this year was altered by a landslide blocking the traditional route to the sanctuary. Despite these challenges, the spirit of La Juta remained unbroken, shifting the central Mass to the Church of the Annunziata.
During his homily, the Rev. Vitaliano Della Sala emphasized the importance of such gatherings, stating that the Juta “is a celebration of the encounter between the human and the divine.” He underscored the need for these occasions, particularly in a world facing increasing violence, prejudice, and threats to fundamental rights.
The femminielli identity is deeply interwoven with Neapolitan mythology, and history. Originating from the Italian word for female, but used with a male diminutive, it represents a third gender role that has held ceremonial and societal significance in Naples for generations. Anthropologist Marzia Mauriello of the University of Naples L’Orientale describes the term as a “floating signifier,” its meaning evolving depending on context.
Historically, femminielli were seen as possessing a unique connection to the supernatural, a belief rooted in ancient Mediterranean traditions. They have long occupied a complex position within Neapolitan society, experiencing periods of acceptance alongside distrust and isolation. Their performative skills, Mauriello notes, contributed to their social inclusion, allowing them to navigate and engage with the city’s vibrant theatrical traditions.
La Juta is not merely a religious observance; it is a cultural expression manifested in various rituals. These include the “Wedding of the Femminielli,” mock nuptials held in Neapolitan neighborhoods, and a symbolic childbirth ritual representing fertility and regeneration. The inclusion of femminielli leading Catholic rosary prayers further solidifies their place within formal religious practice.
This year’s pilgrimage carried a somber undercurrent, marked by the recent death of , a 14-year-old who died by suicide after enduring relentless bullying from classmates. The priest’s remembrance of Minturno, and the pain felt by the community, highlighted the ongoing struggle against transphobia and the devastating consequences of prejudice. “We live it deeply — we cried in church, we held each other because we talk about transphobia, we talk about sisters who have died,” said a participant named Jupy.
A significant development this year was the invitation extended to transgender women to participate in the church readings, a first for the event. Gold Queen, a transgender entertainer, expressed her gratitude, stating, “They want people to believe the church is a place of darkness for us. But there are people inside the church who open their arms, open the doors and help tear down the walls of inequality.”
The historical significance of the pilgrimage is tied to a medieval legend involving two young men accused of a same-sex relationship. According to lore, they were miraculously saved from death by the Madonna of Montevergine, who melted the ice they were bound to. This event established the Madonna as a protector of the oppressed and marginalized, a symbolism central to the Juta’s enduring appeal.
The Trans Association of Naples has played a crucial role in reviving and preserving these traditions since , working to counteract a period of decline. Loredana Rossi, the association’s vice president, emphasized the importance of maintaining these cultural practices, stating, “But after a few years, little by little, people started coming back, and today you see a multitude.”
Rossi, who identifies as a femminiello rather than a transgender woman, highlighted the unique cultural context of the identity. She noted that the role flourished in the post-World War II era, when women entered the workforce, and femminielli often took on domestic roles.
The Juta culminated in a lively and unconventional bingo game, infused with Neapolitan songs, karaoke, and humor. The blending of religious invocations to the Virgin Mary with popular music lyrics underscored the multifaceted cultural identity of the femminielli.
For many participants, the pilgrimage represents a powerful affirmation of belonging, both within their cultural heritage and within the Catholic faith. Rossi reflected on the priest’s message of a loving and inclusive God, stating, “I didn’t feel like I was in a house taken from others. I felt I was in the Lord’s house, and that it was our home too.”
