Despite the welcome shift away from elaborate 50-step routines, there’s a solid case for giving retinol a permanent spot on your bathroom shelf. Originally developed to treat acne, retinol is now an anti-ageing skincare staple, largely due to its ability to accelerate cell turnover and reportedly help improve a whole host of skin woes — from uneven skin texture and tone to laxity and dullness, boosting overall radiance.
The market for these potent skincare ingredients is thriving, with luxury brands increasingly offering sophisticated formulations. Below, a look at some of the best luxury retinol creams and serums available for , with insights from Dr. Sam Bunting, a Harley Street cosmetic dermatologist and founder of the skincare line Dr Sam’s.
“Retinol is a member of the retinoid family — it works like a powerful set of instructions for the skin,” explains Bunting. Retinols are over-the-counter alternatives to prescription retinoids, such as tretinoin, offering a gentler approach. They essentially help to shed away dead skin cells, while at a deeper level helping to stimulate collagen and elastin production by activating specific genes in the skin’s fibroblast cells.
“Rather than acting on a single pathway, retinoids help the skin to function in a healthier, more organised way ” she says. “Which means they have profound, wide-ranging effects, from normalising cell turnover to supporting repair, regeneration and collagen production.”
Retinol’s power, however, can come with a price. Irritation, dryness, or flakiness are common, particularly when starting a new regimen – a period known as “retinisation” as the skin adjusts. This means careful consideration is key, for both beginners and seasoned retinol users.
Best Retinol Creams and Serums for
Augustinus Bader The Retinol Serum
For devotees of Augustinus Bader’s science-backed skincare, powered by Professor Bader’s patented TFC8® technology (developed on the back of research into wound healing), the brand’s retinol serum is a natural extension. Formulated with what Bader calls “clean super-hydrators” and potent botanicals, including pure retinol, marine ectoine and purifying zinc complex, the serum aims to promote the skin’s natural cell-renewing processes, improving skin tone and texture while regulating oiliness. “The formula optimises the body’s natural capacity for self-repair, leading to skin that is measurably refined, restored and more youthful-looking, without any discomfort or redness,” Bader says. The serum is priced at £150.
Dr Sam’s Flawless Nightly Pro 5% retinoid serum
“If your skin has become tolerant to a less potent retinoid but you have not yet reached your goals, it’s worth considering trading to a higher strength,” says Bunting. While she recommends at least six weeks’ tolerance of retinol, retinaldehyde or retinyl retinoate before using Flawless Nightly Pro, those who do can expect an improvement in the appearance of pores, a potential reduction in breakouts and diminishing dark marks and pigmentation. This is due to the cocktail of 5% granactive retinoid, 10% niacinamide, and 2% bakuchiol. The serum retails for £64.
Dr David Jack Good Night Retinoid Renewal cream
Dr. David Jack’s Good Night cream aims to be a multitasking solution, designed to regulate the metabolism and behaviour of skin cells. “My patients tend to struggle with the unwanted side-effects of retinoids, which are often unnecessary with newer forms of vitamin A,” says the aesthetic doctor and skincare expert. “I combined a gentle, non-drying retinoid with a number of synergistically active antioxidants and hyaluronic acid to support the skin as it renews.” The cream is priced at £120.
La Prairie Skin Caviar Nighttime oil with caviar retinol
La Prairie’s retinol oil offers a luxurious approach to nighttime skincare. The formula contains a rare naturally derived retinol molecule in caviar that thrives at night, as it is photosensitive and breaks down in the sun. The silky formula instantly sinks into the skin, leaving it comforted and soothed with a firmer appearance over time. It is priced at £485.
Dior Capture Totale Retishot
Dior’s night concentrate targets six age-related skin concerns: visible pores, dullness, roughness, uneven skin tone, imperfections and marks from the sun or acne. The formula contains 0.1% pure concentrated retinol alongside longoza botanical extract, which is known for its ability to help stimulate epidermal renewal. It retails for £92.
Skin Design London Retinol Gel Crème
Fatma Shaheen, founder of Skin Design London and a celebrity facialist, has vowed to revolutionise retinol. “Retinol is a superior active that every skin can benefit from, but the challenge has always been in the formulation,” she says. “Many retinols fail to deliver consistent results, often causing irritation, flaking and sensitivity.” Her retinol gel creme offers slow-release retinol molecules that combine with niacinamide to penetrate the skin barrier without disrupting it, while peptides and natural illuminators help to soothe and brighten. It is priced at £135.
Eve Lom Radiance Repair Retinol Serum
Eve Lom’s serum is an excellent choice for retinol beginners due to its gentler formulation. Inside the golden bottle is liposome-encapsulated retinol, a more advanced delivery system in which vitamin A is encased in vesicles similar to human cell membranes, which, the brand claims, allows for deeper penetration and increased effectiveness within the skin. The serum also includes AHAs to help exfoliate and smooth the skin’s surface. It is priced at £145.
111SKIN Black Diamond Retinol Oil
Despite containing a highly potent 2.5% blend of retinol and granactive retinoid, 111SKIN’s Black Diamond retinol oil mitigates the risk of irritation with the addition of eight soothing natural oils such as squalane as well as almond, coconut, sunflower seed and linseed oils. The oil is infused with Black Diamond particles — ultra-fine particles with a high surface area and exceptional absorption properties, said to help deliver the formula’s active ingredients deeper into the skin’s layers. It is priced at £190.
Frequently Asked Questions, Answered by a Dermatologist
What is the best way to apply retinol?
Dr. Sam Bunting advises applying any retinoids at night, to cleansed skin, using a pea-sized amount to cover the entire face. “I always recommend starting slowly, on alternate days, and increasing frequency gradually as the skin adapts. Supporting the skin with a good moisturiser is essential, either before or after application depending on sensitivity.” For retinoid beginners, “applying it beforehand lowers the intensity of the retinoid, slowing down its absorption into the skin”.
What to consider when picking a retinol cream?
Dermatologists agree – start low and slow. “I am a huge fan of hydroxypinacolone retinoate,” says Bunting. “It’s a next-generation retinoid that doesn’t require conversion to become active in the skin (unlike retinol or retinaldehyde) and it is very stable, so it stays active during its time on your bathroom shelf.” She recommends starting at 2 per cent and building up to 5 per cent strength and advises beginners to use her Flawless Nightly 2% retinoid serum.
When should I start adding retinol to my skincare routine?
While most adults can benefit from a retinoid, often from their twenties onwards, Bunting believes age is less important than the skin’s readiness. “Turning on retinoid receptors places a high-energy demand on the skin cells,” she explains, “so the barrier needs to be healthy, any inflammation needs to be under control, and the cell needs sufficient energy to act on those instructions.” In other words, repair the skin barrier and simplify your skin routine before introducing retinoids of any kind.
What’s the difference between a retinol and retinal?
Retinal (short for retinaldehyde) is a faster-acting, more potent form of vitamin A than retinol, requiring only one conversion step to become active retinoic acid, while retinol requires two.
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