Breaking the Glass Runway: Black Women Founders on Equality in Fashion

Women’s representation in the fashion industry reveals a stark paradox where entry-level dominance gives way to severe leadership scarcity, according to data from McKinsey and the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). While women make up the majority of entry-level workers across the fashion sector, only 14 percent of major fashion brands had a female executive in charge, according to the study. This disparity extends into funding and executive control, prompting industry founders to address systemic barriers around visibility, mentorship, and capital access.

The Venture Capital Divide and Founder Realities

Startups led by women face steep funding hurdles that force many founders to rely on personal savings before outside investors take notice. According to Carta data, startups with women CEOs received just under 11 percent of U.S. venture capital funding in priced rounds during 2024, leaving more than 89 percent of capital going to male-led startups.

Nia Thomas, founder of her namesake label, notes that true equity reaches beyond visibility. “To me, women’s equality in fashion means that women are not only designing the products or executing the creative vision—we also own the companies, control the capital and occupy the most influential and highly compensated positions within them,” Thomas states. She adds that supplier interactions often involve assumptions about her role: “When I visit major textile suppliers, I am sometimes looked up and down and assumed to be an intern or an assistant representing a male founder.”

Sade Mims, founder of accessories brand Edas, describes similar hurdles in establishing authority with counterparts. “There have been many moments where I’ve had to over-explain or convince my male counterparts that my vision and my voice hold weight,” Mims says, noting that she often spends time proving competence rather than advancing her work.

Community Building and Industry Leadership Shifts

Emerging designers emphasize the importance of community and dismantling rigid industry paths to support the next generation of founders. Kaia Baker, founder of Quintessential, points to the longstanding influence of personal networks in fashion. “This industry has long run on ‘who knows who,’ and that dynamic won’t disappear overnight,” Baker says, emphasizing the drive to scale brands based on concrete accomplishments.

Danielle Laraque, founder of Laraque, highlights recent appointments at major labels as a step forward for representation. “When you look at the creative directors of many major fashion houses and labels, a large portion are still white men,” Laraque notes, pointing to Rachel Scott stepping into the creative director role at Proenza Schouler as a significant milestone for women of color in high-influence positions.

Mims also points to structural changes needed for modern workplaces, including greater flexibility for motherhood. “We need to evaluate capitalism and our work structures as a whole in order to truly meet the needs of the modern woman today,” Mims says. “If we want to create a healthier industry, I honestly believe we should be looking to women.”