Chennai Bao Festival: From Char Siu to Sweet Custard
- Ong, a culinary event titled The Art of Bao has centered its entire focus on the versatility of the bao bun.
- The experience is designed specifically for shared dining rather than solo patrons, emphasizing a table-centric approach to the meal.
- One of the standout offerings is the char siu bao, which features an open pinched bao and a sweet pork filling.
At Mr. Ong, a culinary event titled The Art of Bao
has centered its entire focus on the versatility of the bao bun. The festival avoids diversions or safety nets, instead leaning fully into the concept of pillowy buns paired with rich fillings to balance sweetness, crunch, and umami.
The experience is designed specifically for shared dining rather than solo patrons, emphasizing a table-centric approach to the meal.
Exploring the Bao Menu
One of the standout offerings is the char siu bao, which features an open pinched bao and a sweet pork filling. While the sweetness may initially seem unusual to those accustomed to traditional Madrasi flavors, the dish incorporates a lone roasted coriander kernel that provides a warm, aromatic quality to the flavor profile.
The kitchen has departed from traditional expectations for this dish, as there is no standard BBQ sauce used in the preparation, resulting in a version that is gentler and more complex than its description suggests.
Another key highlight is the miso mushroom bao, described as the quiet achiever
of the menu. The filling combines five different types of mushrooms: button, king oyster, shiitake, shimeji, and black fungus.
The dish succeeds in maintaining the texture of the mushrooms, avoiding rubberiness while blending an earthy base with a slight sweetness and the depth of miso umami.
Texture and Balance
The soft-shell crab bao offers a contrast in textures, featuring an intensely crispy portion of crab. This richness is balanced by the acidity of brine pickled onions, house dressing, and chives.
However, the dish has been noted for being oily, with a suggestion that a minute on a rack or a quick pat before assembly would improve the final result.
To counter the richness of the other offerings, the festival includes a crispy tofu bao, which serves as a necessary palate reset for diners.
The overall execution of the event suggests that a single, well-executed idea—the bao—can sustain a full festival experience when backed by culinary conviction.