Chicama Surf: Boat Trip Guide for the World’s Longest Left
- After 12 hours of travel, you've finally reached the desert moonscape of Puerto Malabrigo, home to Chicama aka "the world's longest left".
- A bleached blonde and sandalled somebody scrapes up to you, croaking out a hello, as he squints into the sun with bloodshot eyes.
- Laughing, he shrugs answering your questions in reverse order: I've been here much longer than planned. It is indeed as good as it looks and it's been even...
After 12 hours of travel, you’ve finally reached the desert moonscape of Puerto Malabrigo, home to Chicama aka “the world’s longest left”. It’s a stunning sunny afternoon, a light offshore breeze applies a bit of texture. You jump from the van to see wave after chest high wave peeling into the bay. There’s no one out.
A bleached blonde and sandalled somebody scrapes up to you, croaking out a hello, as he squints into the sun with bloodshot eyes. You can barely contain your excitement and the questions roll out.
Where is everyone? How has it been? Is it as good as it looks? How long have you been here?
Laughing, he shrugs answering your questions in reverse order: I’ve been here much longer than planned. It is indeed as good as it looks and it’s been even better the past few weeks. And no one’s out because everyone had a long morning session in the boat. Then he asks you the question that will nip at your heels the rest of your stay.
Would you like to join the boat for the afternoon session?
The boat?
To boat or not to boat. That is the question.
I just returned to California after spending a month in Puerto Malabrigo where I fell head over heels for this 2 kilometer left. I asked myself this question almost daily. And it became a surprisingly moral one; of Surf tourism and it’s impacts, of inequality and resource allocation, of etiquette and values.
The boats in question are zodiacs-motorboats-that for the equivalent of two bowls at Chipotle, you can reserve a spot in for a 3 hour session. The ‘surf taxi’ will pick you up on the beach and ferry you up the point, dropping you right in the takeoff spot to rinse and repeat after each wave. It’s the equivalent of a maritime ski-lift, saving your arms but unlocking a soreness in the legs rarely encountered in the water. If an average wave is 10-20 seconds long, a lined up set from El Point to the beach will run you for a minute to two. When coupled with this curbside pickup, the surf taxi increases time on wave exponentially. Reps on reps on reps and by god is it a good time.
But as everything does, it comes with a price.
After a while taking the boat started to feel like stuffing my face at an all you can eat buffet. It felt good while it was happening but I couldn’t help but feel bloated- and a little guilty afterwards. I would remember the glares of those who neglected to joi“`html
Before surf tourism, there were no rules. Here was an opportunity to build a steady business in a place with few opportunities to do so; a fully booked schedule meaning two sessions a day,7 days a week,with an average of 4 surfers per boat. This is big money for a small town like this. It’s the kind of strong and consistent income that can bring a new level of comfort and security to a young person, a family, and even an entire community.
This is the bright side of surf tourism. Money brought by visiting surfers enlivens a sleepy town. Young peopel who would have left for bigger cities with more jobs, opt to stick around, and participate in the industry. Many of these businesses are owned and operated by locals, evolving from a one man show of equipment rentals and surf lessons, into full scale operations with boats, a handful of drones, and rooms to rent. And budding business brings attention- and more importantly funding- from local and national governments. 25 years ago most of Malabrigo lacked running water, let alone electricity. Now, almost everyone has a smartphone and some form of internet connection. Recent government funding built a beautifully paved malecon(boardwalk), complete with shaded verandas, benched lookouts, and a surf museum. Street lights lit the path through the evening, providing a place for locals, and tourists alike, to hangout, listen to music, and drink Trujillo’s. In the town square, there is an extravagant (yet empty) fountain where dolphins jump from one side to the other and 15 foot tall Caballito’s de Totorro stand guard on all sides. None of this is possible without the money, or attention, that surfing brings to town.
View this post on InstagramThe Ethical Dilemma of Boat Access to Surf Breaks in PeruTable of Contents
The increasing accessibility of boat transport to surf breaks in Peru, particularly for tourists from the US, presents a complex ethical challenge for the surfing community. While the affordability – roughly 1 USD to 3.5 Peruvian Soles - and ease of access are tempting, the practise raises concerns about fairness, etiquette, and the overall impact on the surfing experience.
The Allure and Accessibility of Boat Surfing in Peru
peru has become a popular destination for surfers,and the availability of boat access to waves is readily apparent. Drivers actively solicit business, hostels organize trips, and fellow tourists frequently extend invitations. This ease of access contrasts with the conventional surfing ethos of earning your waves through paddling and skill. The author draws a parallel to the convenience of readily available food delivery, questioning whether the lack of effort diminishes the reward.
The Erosion of Surfing’s Meritocratic Nature
The core argument presented centers on the idea that surfing, fundamentally, is an equal opportunity sport. Assuming equal skill and access to gear, everyone has the same potential to catch waves. However, introducing motorboats into the lineup disrupts this meritocracy.The author argues it creates a “feeding frenzy” and undermines established surfing etiquette, leading to a “tragedy of the commons” scenario where individual gain leads to collective detriment. This concept, originally described by Garrett Hardin in 1968, applies here as the shared resource (the waves) is potentially overexploited due to the ease of access provided by boats.
Considerations for Responsible Surfing
The piece doesn’t offer a definitive answer to the “to boat or not to boat” question. Rather, it advocates for conscious and nuanced consideration of the impacts of one’s actions. As visitors, surfers have a duty to be mindful of their presence and its effects on local surf ecosystems and communities. The author concludes with a practical note: if one does utilize boat services, tipping the driver is essential.
Latest verified Status (as of 2026/01/11 23:12:59):
The situation described remains largely consistent with reports from 2023 and 2024.Increased tourism in Peru, particularly in surf destinations like huanchaco and Mancora, continues to drive demand for boat access to breaks. Discussions regarding the impact of this practice on local surfing culture and wave access are ongoing within online surfing communities and among local surfers. There have been no widespread regulatory changes implemented to specifically address boat access to surf breaks in Peru as of this date. however, local surf schools and communities are increasingly promoting responsible surfing practices and advocating for lasting tourism.
Peru as a Surfing Destination
peru offers a diverse range of surfing opportunities, from consistent beach breaks to powerful point breaks. Key surfing regions include:
* Huanchaco: Known for its traditional caballitos de totora (reed boats) and consistent waves.
* Mancora: A popular spot for beginner and intermediate surfers with warm water and a lively atmosphere.
* Punta Hermosa: home to some of Peru’s most challenging and renowned waves.
* Lobitos: A remote and consistent left-hand point break.The Impact of Tourism on Peruvian Surf Culture
The influx of international surfers has both positive and negative effects on Peruvian surf culture. While tourism generates economic benefits, it also raises concerns about overcrowding, environmental impact, and the potential displacement of local surfers.
The Tragedy of the Commons and Surf Etiquette
The “tragedy of the commons” is a concept in economics that describes a situation where individuals acting independently and rationally according to their self-interest behave contrary to the best interests of the whole by depleting a shared resource, like waves in a lineup. Maintaining surf etiquette – respecting priority, not dropping in, and sharing waves – is crucial to mitigating this affect.
