The UK’s takeaway landscape is undergoing a significant shift, with chicken rapidly gaining ground while the traditional fish and chip shop faces an existential crisis. Rising costs, changing consumer preferences, and the influx of American fast-food chains are converging to reshape Britain’s culinary habits.
While the UK fast food market is projected to reach £40.5 billion in , representing a 5.7% year-over-year growth, the benefits are not being evenly distributed. The surge is driven, in part, by the “chicken boom,” according to Maria Vanifatova, chief executive of Meaningful Vision. “Chicken is really booming and we believe that this year this trend will continue,” she says.
This trend is fueled by chicken’s relative affordability compared to other proteins. As household budgets are squeezed by broader economic pressures, consumers are increasingly opting for cheaper protein sources. This has spurred a wave of investment from US chains, including Raising Cane’s, Chick‑fil‑A, Slim’s Chicken, Dave’s Hot Chicken, Popeyes, and Wingstop, all vying for a share of the UK market.
The impact on the traditional fish and chip shop is stark. Andrew Crook, owner of a fish and chip shop in Lancashire and president of the National Federation of Fish Fryers (NFFF), notes that profitability is tilting heavily in favor of chicken. “There’s certainly more profit in chicken than there is in fish that’s for sure,” he says. This profit disparity is occurring against a backdrop of escalating costs for fish and energy, putting immense pressure on an already struggling sector.
The decline of the fish and chip shop is a long-term trend. From roughly 25,000 outlets in the and , the number has dwindled to approximately 9,000 today, according to the NFFF. This decline isn’t merely a matter of economics; Crook expresses concern about the potential loss of a cultural institution. “In fish and chips, we’re worried about losing a generation.”
The pressures facing fish and chip shops are multifaceted. Beyond the rising cost of fish – a key input – energy costs are also a significant burden, given the energy-intensive nature of frying. The appeal of chicken, with its diverse flavor profiles and perceived value, is drawing customers away. The article highlights a price comparison: haddock, chips, and lemon cost £11.20 when ordered directly from a takeaway in St Andrews, but £14.40 via Deliveroo, a 29% increase attributed to delivery service fees.
This price inflation isn’t limited to fish and chips. A report in The Guardian detailed how restaurants were being forced to raise prices on app menus to offset the commissions charged by delivery services like Deliveroo, Uber Eats, and Just Eat, which frequently amount to around 30% of the order value. A cappuccino, for example, might cost £3.10 in-store but £3.90 on Deliveroo or Uber Eats. A toasted sandwich could be £4.90 in-store but £6.50 on the apps, representing a 30% markup for at-home ordering.
The broader UK restaurant sector is grappling with inflation. Data from shows that UK foodservice inflation climbed past 6% in , with beef burgers experiencing sharper-than-average price increases. Beef burger prices in major quick-service restaurant chains rose by 3% between and , with year-on-year inflation accelerating from 2% to 5% over the same period. This increase correlates with record-high beef prices paid to farmers, driven by declining cattle numbers and rising production costs.
While chicken burger and sandwich prices also increased – by 2% in , with 4% year-on-year growth – price fluctuations were more varied within that category. Value menus are particularly affected, with chicken items up 9% and beef items up 6% since .
The shift towards chicken and the challenges faced by traditional fish and chip shops reflect a broader trend of cost pressures and changing consumer behavior in the UK’s fast-food sector. While the market as a whole is growing, the distribution of that growth is uneven, and the future of some long-standing British culinary traditions remains uncertain.
