Having lived extensively in China, I’ve found that frequent visits to the Great Wall – in its many forms – sparked a desire to explore the country and its diverse sections beyond the capital. Work on this monumental structure began over 2,500 years ago, originating in China’s Spring and Autumn Period (approximately 770 to 476 BCE), with subsequent dynasties adding to its length and complexity.
Though often perceived as a single, continuous structure, the Great Wall is actually a network of numerous walls, many running parallel to each other, stretching over 21,000 kilometers across northern China and southern Mongolia. While some sections are well-known tourist destinations, many have fallen into disrepair or obscurity.
Yongtai Turtle City: A Fortified Garrison
In Gansu province, the Turtle City, built during the Ming Dynasty (completed in 1608), served as part of the “Yellow River Defense Line.” Originally housing around 2,500 soldiers – 2,000 infantry and 500 cavalry – this fortress city’s unique shape earned it its nickname. The south gate represents the head, with the west and east gates forming flippers, the oval wall acting as the body, and the north gate as the tail. It remains one of the most well-preserved walled cities in China.
Lodging is readily available in the Jingtai County center, allowing easy access to the city. Local cuisine includes five Buddha tofu and Jingtai cold mixed noodles, both spicy vegetarian dishes, and a sprawling night market offers a variety of snacks.
Accessing Yongtai Turtle City requires a 2.5-hour drive (195 kilometers) from Lanzhou, the provincial capital, or a 1.5-hour drive (125 kilometers) from Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport.
Mutianyu and Jiankou: Classic Ming Dynasty Sections
Located near Beijing, the Mutianyu and Jiankou sections together span roughly 25 kilometers. These are considered prime examples of Ming Dynasty construction. Mutianyu, restored in the 1980s, is a popular tourist destination with cable car access. Jiankou, known as the “wild wall,” remains largely unrestored and is subject to safety concerns, with local authorities discouraging hiking as of 2020.
Lodging options near Mutianyu include The Brickyard, offering comfortable accommodations. For those interested in the history of the wall, spending time with William Lindesay and his family at The Barracks, a courtyard home near the wall, is an option.
The best times to visit are during the fall and spring, when the foliage provides a stunning backdrop. Winter offers opportunities for skiing and skating nearby.
Mutianyu is accessible by car or the Mutianyu Special Tourism Bus from Dongzhimen Wai Bus Station. Jiankou is best reached by car due to limited public transportation options.
Bataizi: Where History Meets Faith
Bataizi village, in Hebei province, is home to the ruins of a Gothic church built in 1876 by a German missionary. The church, damaged and repaired over its nearly 150-year history, stands in stark contrast to the rammed-earth Great Wall. Visiting the ruins and speaking with Father Pan at the village’s newer church offers insight into the area’s long connection with Catholicism.
The area is best visited in late summer, with lodging available in Bataizi village or the nearby city of Chicheng. Local specialties include lamb skewers, roast leg of lamb, and oat noodles.
Reaching Bataizi requires a drive from Datong, approximately 80 kilometers. Public transportation is available to Chicheng, followed by a taxi ride.
Laoniuwan: The Wall and the Yellow River
Laoniuwan, in Shanxi province, is notable for being one of the few places where the Great Wall meets a major body of water – the Yellow River. Constructed during the reign of Emperor Jiajing (1507-1567), the wall here reaches seven meters in height in some sections. The area is particularly scenic in July and August, with lush green hills.
Lodging can be found in Laoniuwan village or the nearby city of Chicheng. Local cuisine features lamb dishes and oat noodles.
Accessing Laoniuwan is best achieved by car, as public transportation is limited. It is located approximately 140 kilometers from Datong.
Simatai: The Fairy Tower
Construction on the Simatai section of the Great Wall began in 1373, with ongoing expansion throughout the Ming Dynasty. The Fairy Tower is a prominent landmark, offering stunning views from nearby Wangjing Tower. The hike to the Fairy Tower is challenging but rewarding.
Lodging options include Hobo Farm and Yatou’s Homestay. The area is best visited during clear weather to maximize visibility.
Simatai is accessible from Tangjiazhai village, located in Beijing’s Miyun district, approximately 140 kilometers from downtown Beijing.
The Great Wall, a testament to centuries of construction and strategic defense, continues to captivate visitors with its scale, history, and natural beauty. Exploring these diverse sections offers a deeper understanding of China’s rich cultural heritage.
