Daniel Humm Returns to Meat Service – Why the Fear?
Okay, here’s a breakdown of the key themes and ideas expressed in the interview with Chef Daniel Humm, based on the provided text:
1. balancing Vision & Control vs. Rigidity:
Humm acknowledges the importance of having a vision (“does not mean that you have to give up your vision”) but cautions against the illusion of total control.He differentiates between healthy self-confidence and believing you can dictate every outcome.
He finds control in the kitchen (“I can control everything in my kitchen”) which is a key reason he became a chef. Though, he accepts that things outside the kitchen are less controllable.
He frames “defeat” not as a failure, but as an inevitable part of the process.
2. Constant Evolution & Change:
“Eleven Madison Park” has gone through numerous transformations over the past 20 years (brasserie, fine dining, minimalist menu, New York-focused, reduced dishes, plant-based). he sees this constant change as essential to the restaurant’s identity.
He emphasizes a slow, organic growth for each new “chapter” of the restaurant.
He believes stagnation is the biggest danger (“The worst thing is when you stop changing”).
3. The Plant-Based Experiment & Its Aftermath:
While the number of strict vegans hasn’t dramatically increased, openness to vegetarian/vegan cuisine has grown, especially among younger generations.
He notes a potential link between societal insecurity and a reluctance to try new things, suggesting a need for a certain level of well-being to embrace culinary experimentation.
He admits to a “shameful joy” in some of the negative reactions, seeing them as a natural part of pushing boundaries.
He acknowledges losing some customers (specifically those who prefer wine pairings with meat) during the plant-based phase.
4. Innovation & Learning from the Plant-Based Phase:
He defends the radical approach, stating it was necessary to achieve importent progress and learning.
He highlights the exciting discoveries made during the plant-based period – Koji funds, algae ricotta, sunflower seed butter, etc. – and considers it the most moving chapter of his career.
The plant-based phase allowed them to develop a new culinary language, moving away from classic French cuisine and exploring influences from the Middle East, India, and Japan.
5. The Future: A More Flexible Approach
The next phase will likely involve incorporating fish and meat alongside vegan dishes.
* The core focus on vegetable-centric cuisine will remain.
In essence, the interview portrays Humm as a chef who is driven by innovation, unafraid of risk, and committed to continuous evolution. He sees change not as a sign of failure, but as a vital component of staying relevant and creatively fulfilled.