Hakama: Japan’s Traditional Trousers & Their Modern Use

Hakama: From Samurai Battlefields to Modern Graduation Ceremonies

Hakama, traditional Japanese skirt-like trousers, continue to hold a unique place in modern Japanese society, extending far beyond their historical roots as attire for samurai and nobility. While often associated with formal occasions, their enduring presence is particularly notable in the realm of education, where they remain a common sight at graduation ceremonies across the country.

Historically worn by both men and women, the hakama experienced a decline in everyday wear for women during the Edo period (1603–1868). However, a resurgence occurred during the Meiji era (1868–1912) as Japan modernized. The garment was adopted as part of the uniform for female students, a practice that cemented its association with education and continues to this day. This link to academic achievement explains why young women are so frequently seen wearing hakama during graduation ceremonies, a visual representation of their accomplishments.

(© Pixta)

The hakama’s versatility extends beyond academic settings. For couples choosing traditional Japanese wedding attire, the groom typically wears a black-and-white striped hakama paired with a black haori jacket. The garment remains standard attire in various Japanese martial arts, including kendō and kyūdō (archery), reflecting its historical connection to warrior culture and the need for freedom of movement.

There are two primary styles of hakama: the andon hakama (lantern hakama) and the umanori hakama (horse-riding hakama). The umanori hakama, originally designed for samurai on horseback, features a split in each leg to facilitate movement. This style is still favored by practitioners of martial arts like aikido, kendo, and iaido for training and competition. The andon hakama, lacking these splits, more closely resembles a long skirt.

The origins of the hakama can be traced back to the Heian period (794-1185), when aristocrats wore them as a symbol of status. Early hakama were crafted from luxurious materials like silk or hemp and were often so long they trailed on the ground, a deliberate display of wealth. Over time, the garment evolved, becoming practical attire for horseback riding during the Kamakura period (1185-1333), offering freedom of movement and even concealing leg positioning for tactical advantage in battle.

While traditionally made from natural fabrics, modern hakama often utilize synthetic materials to better maintain the garment’s characteristic pleats. Common colors include white, black, gray, and navy, often in solid or striped patterns. The enduring appeal of the hakama lies in its ability to blend tradition with contemporary fashion, making it a garment that continues to resonate with Japanese culture and increasingly, with global style trends.

Looking ahead, the hakama’s presence in both traditional and modern contexts suggests its continued relevance. Exhibitions like the “Haikara Modern Hakama Style Exhibition” in Tokyo demonstrate a growing interest in the garment’s fashion potential, while its continued use in martial arts and academic ceremonies ensures its preservation as a significant cultural symbol. The hakama, is not merely a relic of the past, but a dynamic garment that continues to evolve and adapt to the present.