Illegal skin-lightening products are increasingly available in the UK, appearing not only online but also in a range of retail outlets including butchers, specialist food shops, and small grocery stores. These products pose significant health risks due to the presence of banned substances, prompting warnings from trading standards officials.
The Chartered Trading Standards Institute (CTSI) reports that many of these creams contain dangerous ingredients such as high levels of hydroquinone, mercury, and potent corticosteroids. These substances are prohibited under UK product safety and cosmetics legislation because of the serious and potentially irreversible harm they can cause, including skin thinning, organ damage, and long-term health complications.
“As a Black woman and a longstanding advocate for equality, diversity and inclusion, I want to be absolutely clear: the sale of illegal skin lightening products is not only dangerous, it is unlawful,” stated Tendy Lindsay, a former chair of the CTSI. She emphasized that regardless of a shop’s size, all retailers have a legal responsibility to ensure the products they sell are safe and compliant with the law, and a lack of awareness is not a valid defense.
The demand for skin-lightening products is driven by complex social and personal factors, including colourism – a form of discrimination that favors lighter skin tones – within some Black and Asian communities. This creates a vulnerability that unscrupulous traders exploit for profit. The CTSI highlighted a recent case where a woman named Arlène shared her experiences with colourism and racism, which led her to use skin-lightening products containing harmful and illegal ingredients without understanding the risks.
The dangers of these products are stark. Daniel, from Essex, recounted his experience as a teenager using an unlabeled skin-whitening lotion to address dark patches caused by acne. He was unaware that it contained hydroquinone, a substance described by the Local Government Association as “the biological equivalent of paint stripper.” He subsequently used similar products on his entire body in pursuit of a consistently lighter skin tone, resulting in permanent skin damage.
The CTSI is increasingly finding these items sold in everyday local stores, sometimes without a full understanding of the risks involved. “Everyone deserves to feel confident in their natural skin and everyone deserves protection under the law,” Lindsay added. The issue isn’t simply cosmetic. it’s a matter of public health and consumer safety.
Recent enforcement actions demonstrate the seriousness of the problem. A beauty store in south London was recently fined more than £30,000 for selling dangerous skin-lightening products, with further cases currently progressing through the courts. However, enforcement alone is not enough. Trading Standards and partner organizations emphasize the importance of raising awareness and providing education, particularly for groups most at risk.
Consumers are advised to carefully check product labeling. Legally sold cosmetic products in the UK must display ingredients in English and include the name and address of a UK-based manufacturer or importer. Products listing hydroquinone, mercury, or corticosteroids like clobetasol propionate or betamethasone, or those lacking clear UK labeling, should be avoided. The CTSI also strongly advises against using skin-lightening products on children and recommends consulting a doctor or dermatologist before using any lotion intended to alter skin tone.
The market for these products is expanding, with a growing presence on social media platforms. Influencers are increasingly promoting these products directly to consumers without adequate oversight. Consumers are cautioned against purchasing from unverified sellers or social media accounts, avoiding online marketplaces, and reporting any suspicious beauty products or adverse reactions.
The issue of illegal skin-lightening creams is not new, with concerns raised repeatedly over the years. As Lisa Bickerstaffe, a spokeswoman for the British Skin Foundation, noted, this is an issue that “comes up year after year.” This persistent problem underscores the need for continued vigilance, robust enforcement, and comprehensive public health education to protect vulnerable individuals from the dangers of these harmful products.
The underlying drivers of demand – colourism and harmful beauty standards – require broader societal attention. Addressing these issues is crucial to reducing the vulnerability that allows unscrupulous traders to profit from insecurities and endanger public health.
