In the bustling capital of Indonesia, Jakarta, a stark contrast exists between the modern cityscape and the remnants of a colonial-era tradition: the delman, a wooden carriage pulled by horses. These horses, once a common sight in Jakarta, are now confined to a few areas of the city, with only a few hundred remaining to ferry tourists on weekends or public holidays. Their plight, however, is a grim reflection of the harsh conditions they endure.

A Dark Stable Under the Highway

Under a heaving highway in Jakarta, trucks rumble past emaciated carriage horses tied to pillars in ramshackle wooden stalls, their ribs protruding. The stables, often dark and damp, offer little respite from the harsh conditions.

Thank God, in here, at least the horses are protected from the sun’s heat and rain, said 52-year-old carriage driver Sutomo, highlighting the dire conditions.

The Decline of the Delman

The delman, once a staple of colonial-era transportation, has seen a significant decline in recent years. The rise of ride-hailing apps like Uber and Lyft in the U.S. has a parallel in Indonesia with services like Grab and Gojek, which have largely replaced traditional modes of transport.

Now limited to just a few areas of the city, the delman horses are a fading sight, with only a few hundred remaining to ferry tourists on weekends or public holidays. The once-thriving industry has dwindled to a mere shadow of its former self, leaving the horses and their drivers in a precarious situation.

Animal Welfare Concerns

Animal rights activists have long advocated for the end of this practice, citing the harsh conditions under which the horses are kept. The limited income from the delman service has forced owners and some who rent the horses to ignore proper horse care, leading to malnutrition and poor living conditions.

There are about 200 carthorses still in service at around 20 stables, according to estimates, including one squalid encampment holding 15 horses seen by AFP. It was surrounded by garbage and plastic debris next to a smelly, polluted river.

The conditions are really, really bad, said Karin Franken, co-founder of Jakarta Animal Aid Network (JAAN), an NGO that has been advocating for delman horses since 2014. They are not treating the horses very well (but) very aggressively, very rough.

Extreme Abuse and Neglect

To a tourist’s eye, the delman can appear as a colorful addition to the city, adorned by decorations and small bells that jingle when the horse moves. However, the reality is far from idyllic. Some owners still rely on harmful traditional medications, including puncturing the horse’s muscles with bamboo sticks to pass a rope through to “cleanse” its blood.

During the Covid-19 pandemic, some horses also died of starvation, said Franken, calling for the delman to be gradually phased out. The life as a delman horse, especially in Jakarta, is really terrible, she said.

Legal and Ethical Dilemmas

While there is a national law on animal protection in Indonesia, there is little monitoring of violations, according to JAAN. The local government said it remained committed to animal welfare but needed more help.

We need support from other parties… to be able to provide services such as free medical check-ups, Suharini Eliawati, head of the Jakarta Food Security, Maritime and Agriculture Agency, told AFP. The owners must obey the rules in animal welfare protection.

Franken said JAAN also tries to educate the delman workers on how to provide better treatment for the horses, in exchange for free medical care for the animals. But many people do not comply on grounds of tradition or financial issues.

They can barely take care of themselves and their families, let alone horses. It’s very sad for both, Franken said. There still are, unfortunately, cases of extreme abuse or neglect.

The Future of Delman Horses

Young delman drivers are open to moving to other jobs like ride-hailing motor-taxi drivers, but older ones are more stubborn because they say it’s the only thing they can do, said Franken. Some are likely to keep trying to make a penny, despite pushing their equine breadwinners to the brink.

I like animals, I also like this job, said delman owner Novan Yuge Prihatmoko, as he guided his horse through West Jakarta, adding that he can earn 150,000 rupiah (US$9.20) a day. I feel comfortable, so why not? I just keep doing this for a living.

Comparisons and Implications for the U.S.

The plight of Jakarta’s delman horses raises important questions about animal welfare and the ethical treatment of working animals. In the U.S., similar issues arise with horse-drawn carriages in cities like New York and Philadelphia. These carriages, while popular tourist attractions, often face criticism for the conditions in which the horses are kept and the treatment they receive.

In New York, for example, there have been numerous calls to ban horse-drawn carriages due to concerns about animal welfare. Advocates argue that the horses are often subjected to harsh conditions, including extreme weather and long working hours. The debate highlights the ongoing struggle between tradition and animal welfare in modern cities.

Potential Solutions and Future Directions

Addressing the plight of delman horses requires a multifaceted approach. Education and awareness campaigns can help change attitudes towards animal welfare. Providing alternative livelihoods for delman drivers can also alleviate the financial pressures that lead to neglect. Additionally, stricter enforcement of animal welfare laws and regulations can ensure that horses are treated humanely.

In the U.S., similar initiatives have been proposed to address the welfare of working horses. For instance, some cities have implemented regulations requiring regular veterinary check-ups and limiting the number of hours horses can work. These measures can serve as a model for Jakarta and other cities facing similar challenges.

Conclusion

The plight of Jakarta’s delman horses serves as a stark reminder of the ongoing struggle for animal welfare in modern cities. While the tradition of horse-drawn carriages may hold cultural significance, it is crucial to prioritize the well-being of the animals involved. By addressing the root causes of neglect and providing alternative livelihoods, cities can ensure a more humane future for working animals.