Jim Whittaker: From Everest Summit to REI Success

Jim Whittaker, the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, died on April 7, 2026, at the age of 97. He passed away at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, surrounded by family and loved ones.

Whittaker achieved his historic ascent of the 29,032-foot peak on May 1, 1963, as a member of the American Mount Everest Expedition led by Norman Dyhrenfurth. He reached the summit alongside Nawang Gombu Sherpa, a nephew of Tenzing Norgay. Despite running out of oxygen during the climb, the pair successfully reached the highest point on Earth.

Career and Impact at REI

Beyond his mountaineering achievements, Whittaker was a pivotal figure in the growth of the outdoor industry. On July 25, 1955, he became the first full-time employee of Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI). He later served as the company’s CEO during the 1960s and was an early member of its board alongside American Alpine Club president Nicholas Clinch.

His 1963 Everest climb provided significant free advertising for REI, which helped the co-op transition into a new era of business success. In 1964, the following year after his ascent, the company’s gross income exceeded $1 million for the first time.

Early Life and Mountaineering

Born in Seattle, Washington, on February 10, 1929, Whittaker began climbing in the 1940s while serving in the Boy Scouts. He climbed alongside his twin brother, Lou Whittaker, and the two summited Mount Olympus—the highest peak in the Olympic Mountains west of Seattle—at age 16.

Whittaker’s education included graduation from West Seattle High School and Seattle University.

Public Service and Later Years

In 1965, Whittaker and Dee Molenaar guided Robert F. Kennedy up the peak later named Mount Kennedy. This expedition began a close friendship between the two men, who spent multiple vacations together. In 1968, Whittaker served as Kennedy’s state campaign chairman.

Whittaker remained an active member of the mountaineering community for decades, eventually returning to Mount Everest with his family when he was 83 years old.

His family described his life as being devoted to adventure, stewardship, service, and family.

Whittaker died at home, in a bed “with a sweeping view of the region he loved: the Olympic Mountains, Port Townsend Bay, and the Strait of Juan de Fuca,”

Leif Whittaker, via Cascadia Daily News