Len Berk: The 95-Year-Old Lox Slicer at Zabar’s Talks About an Unchanging New York and Folks’ Go-To Orders
Len Berk: the 95-Year-Old Lox Slicer at New York City this Hanukkah”>Zabar’s
Behind the iconic fish counter of one of Manhattan’s most beloved grocery stores, Zabar’s, New Yorkers unknowingly interact with a living piece of the city’s history: Len Berk, the 95-year-old lox slicer who has been with the Jewish deli for over three decades, still working there every Thursday.
A lifelong New Yorker, Berk is more than just a mascot for long-standing businesses like Zabar’s. He is a testament to the enduring spirit of the city, having lived on this planet for nearly a century and called New York City home for just as long. Berk has witnessed the changes in the city over the years but remains grounded by his interactions with customers each day.
He is joined by characters like Enrico Adelman, the 77-year-old who runs a book stand across the street from Zabar’s filled exclusively with signed copies of Philip Roth books; the "Green Lady," an 80-something eccentric who’s been walking the streets in every shade of green for over twenty years; and Dan Rossi, the “Hot Dog King,” who’s been operating a food cart in front of the Metropolitan Museum of Art for more than a decade. Together, they form a rapidly shrinking group of characters whose impacts on the city’s culture are often overlooked by younger New Yorkers.
In a time dominated by social media, spending time with Berk is refreshing, a reminder that genuine human connection still exists amidst urban anonymity. Sharp as ever despite his age, Berk is direct, clear, and easy to chat with.
Yet, like many city dwellers, Berk doesn’t necessarily feel at ease. “Being 95 years old is a very strange place to be,” he says on a recent Thursday afternoon in the main office at Zabar’s. “Quite often, I get the feeling that I don’t belong. […] I feel like I have to hang in there. I have no friends; all of my friends are dead. That’s why I have to make friends behind the counter with the young guys. But it’s uncomfortable not to have friends. I don’t know how the city has changed, though. The cars and buses are still running.”
Currently living in Westchester with his wife, Berk’s career as a lox slicer is just one iteration of his diverse work life. When asked about his various jobs throughout New York, he says with a serious tone, “How far back do you want to go? When I was a kid, I worked as a chicken flicker. In those days, when they delivered the chickens to the butcher shop, there were no supermarkets then; they would deliver them whole with feathers. I would go into a screened room and pull out the feathers. That was my first job.”
Next came candy making, which still involves roasting his own cashew nuts today. He also had stints in accounting and even a relatively short tenure as a dining tour operator in Hong Kong. Eventually, he found his way to the fish department at Zabar’s.
A friend called him 35 years ago to let him know Zabar’s was looking for a lox slicer. Prior to that, Berk would buy half a side of salmon and slice it himself at home. Feeling naturally inclined to the task, he sent an email to Saul Zabar, and the rest is history. “I came in on Friday,” he recalls. “Saul said ‘come in on Friday, we’ll put you behind the counter and see what you can do.’ That Friday, he introduced me to David Yan, who was a slicer at the counter. Yan was a man of very few words—‘Watch’ he said, and I’ve been here ever since.”
“I’m the last of the Jewish lox slicers at Zabar’s,” notes Berk. “Probably, in the world.” He is quick to chat with patrons and celebrate the shop each week.
For him, cutting lox is an experience that transcends mere work. “When you get involved with the lox, you have your hands all over the salmon and trim off all the crusty parts. Then, there are the bones. To slice it, you have to take out all the pin bones, for which we have special pliers,” he explains. “But in order to locate precisely where the pin bones are, you have to take your hand and run it across the entire salmon. This turns out to be a very sensual experience.”
Berk feels one with the salmon, his arm an extension of it as he slices. To him, it’s not work—it’s an art form.
When asked about the changing culture of New York City and its inhabitants, he simply points out that despite the shifting times, “the people are pretty much the same because they’re all coming here for the same purpose—to buy salmon.”
However, the price of salmon has significantly increased, from $16 a pound to $54 a pound. This price hike means that patrons are now ordering fish in thinner slices. “The reason is because you get more slices and it goes further,” he shares.
Berk’s most popular order remains unchanged: half a pound of Nova, which he says is “all day long.”
Assuming Berk’s thirst for new experiences has worn off after nearly 100 years in this city would be a huge mistake. In recent years, he’s become a columnist at The Forward—a gig he’s not about to let go of, despite his editor sitting on two of his stories that they haven’t published.
“It was wild to discover that I had a talent for writing,” says Berk while discussing his latest job. “I have a collection of 35 stories that I wrote. I still can’t believe it.”
What could possibly be next for a guy who’s already done it all… and then some? Only time will tell for this enigmatic figure who continues to slice, chat, and celebrate Zabar’s each week with infectious enthusiasm and timeless talent.
Conclusion:
Len Berk, the 95-year-old lox slicer at Zabar’s, embodies the essence of New York City’s enduring spirit. His nearly century-long life, marked by various professions and experiences, has woven him into the city’s fabric. From his early days as a chicken plucker to his current role at the iconic fish counter, berk’s journey is a testament to the richness and diversity of New York’s culture.
Berk’s tale is not merely about slicing fish; it is about human connection, nostalgia, and resilience. Behind the bustling counter of Zabar’s, he finds solace in his interactions with customers, each one a tale of shared experience and communal bonding. Despite feeling the weight of being 95, Berk continues to craft meaningful relationships and evoke a sense of wonder in everyone he meets.
as the city around him transforms, Berk remains a steady figure, his memories and wisdom offering a bridge between different eras. His work is more than just slicing salmon; it is about preserving tradition and fostering community.
Len Berk’s story reminds us that even in a bustling metropolis, genuine human interactions can stand the test of time. His legacy at Zabar’s and within New York City’s cultural landscape is unparalleled, symbolizing the unwavering spirit of a bygone era.
As we reflect on Len Berk’s remarkable life and career, we are left with a profound appreciation for the encounters we share daily with individuals like him. Their stories, though often overlooked, are the backbone of our city’s heritage. Len Berk’s place at Zabar’s is not just a job; it is an embodiment of New York City’s heart and soul.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of Len berk
Len Berk, the 95-year-old lox slicer at Zabar’s, stands not just as a testament to New York City’s rich history but also as a living embodiment of its enduring spirit. With a career spanning nearly a century and diverse roles that include chicken plucking, candy making, and even culinary tours in Hong Kong, Berk’s journey to Zabar’s was a serendipitous convergence of passion and opportunity. His dedication to the art of slicing lox is more than just a job; it is an intimate dance with the salmon, a sensual experiance that resonates deeply with patron and slicer alike[1][3].
As a member of a rapidly shrinking group of New York City’s cultural icons, Berk’s stories and insights offer a refreshing reminder of genuine human connection in an era dominated by digital anonymity. Despite feeling somewhat disconnected from the changing cityscape, berk finds solace and purpose each Thursday at Zabar’s, where patrons gather for more than just fish but for community and tradition.
Berk’s legacy extends beyond his daily work, as he has recently been a columnist for the Forward, chronicling his experiences and lessons learned in both the kitchen and the broader city context[2]. His popular order—half a pound of Nova salmon—remains unchanged,a testament to consistency and enduring taste.
As the city’s cultural tapestry continues to evolve, it is through individuals like Len Berk that we are reminded of the timeless value of tradition and the enduring human spirit. Berk’s story serves as a beacon, encouraging us to cherish not just the iconic landmarks but also the people who breathe life into them. Whether you are a lifelong new Yorker or one of the city’s many newcomers, Len Berk’s journey is a poignant reminder that in a city that never sleeps, some of its most cherished moments are those shared behind the counter with a true legend.
In a phrase that encapsulates his philosophy, Len Berk says, “If you love it, it will work.” For this 95-year-old legend, nothing could be truer.His story is a testament to the transformative power of passion and community, making every slice of lox a journey through time and culture.