Life Under Putin: An Undercover Journey Along the Volga

The book Volga Blues: A Journey Into the Heart of Russia, written by Italian journalist Marzio Mian, examines the contemporary state of Russian society through an undercover reporting trip along the Volga River. The work explores how ordinary citizens navigate life under the leadership of Vladimir Putin, specifically focusing on the intersection of Orthodox values, the legacy of Joseph Stalin, and the impact of war and cultural isolation.

The Volga River serves as the central lens for the narrative, acting as a symbol of Russian identity and destiny. Mikhail Piotrovsky, the director of the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, describes the river as the life force of a nation and the autobiography of a people, asserting that Russia would not exist without it.

The Symbolic and Religious Role of the Volga

The river’s significance is underscored by religious ceremonies and state symbolism. In June 2017, Patriarch Kirill, the leader of the Russian Orthodox Church, traveled to a remote monastery in the Valdai Hills, located approximately 220 miles northwest of Moscow, to consecrate the source of the river. During the ceremony, Kirill used a golden orthodox cross and incense to bless the headwaters of what he termed the great Russian river.

While the Volga is not the longest river in Russia, It’s the longest in Europe. Its role in the national consciousness is presented as a blend of religious pomp and historical weight, reflecting the broader effort to tie Russian national identity to the land and its spiritual heritage.

Undercover Reporting and Social Observations

Mian conducted his research as part of a risky undercover mission. He was accompanied by photographer Alessandro Cosmeli, a translator named Vlad, and Vlad’s girlfriend, Katya. Together, they gathered firsthand accounts from residents living along the river to understand the lived reality of those outside the major urban centers.

The reporting reveals a complex social landscape where ordinary Russians continue to embrace the legacy of Stalin alongside Orthodox values. The narratives collected during the journey highlight how the population is coping with the effects of war, increasing isolation from the international community, and a shifting cultural environment.

By traveling the length of the river, Mian sought to capture a glimpse of life under Putin, documenting the tension between official state narratives and the personal experiences of the people.

Publication and Recognition

The book was translated into English by Elettra Pauletto and published by the W.W. Norton Company. It has received the Estense Prize for its exploration of the tortuous history and current social climate of Russia.

The work is positioned as a river of consciousness, using the geography of the Volga to map the psychological and political state of the Russian people during a period of significant international conflict and internal change.