Little Ethiopia Restaurants Adapt to Pandemic Realities
The COVID-19 pandemic has forced Ethiopian restaurants in Los Angeles to reimagine long-held culinary traditions. For many, the communal dining experience central to Ethiopian cuisine – sharing food from a common platter – proved unsustainable under public health restrictions.
Fekere Gebre-Mariam, owner of Rosalind’s Restaurant in Little Ethiopia, spoke to LA Eater about the challenges. The area, located on Fairfax Avenue between Pico and Olympic Boulevards, is a vibrant hub of Ethiopian restaurants, galleries, and shops. It officially became known as Little Ethiopia in 2002, building on a community that began forming in the 1990s.
The shift away from shared plates has been a significant adjustment. Traditionally, Ethiopian meals are served with a variety of stews (wats) and vegetable dishes arranged on a large, circular platter covered with injera, a spongy flatbread. Diners tear off pieces of injera to scoop up the food, creating a communal and interactive dining experience.
However, the pandemic necessitated a move towards individual plating, a departure from this cherished custom. The Counter reported on how this change impacted restaurants like Rosalind’s, forcing owners to rethink how they present and serve their food.
The impact of COVID-19 wasn’t limited to Los Angeles. In Calgary, Canada, Marathon Ethiopian Restaurant closed its doors permanently in October 2021, with the pandemic cited as a primary factor in the decision. Owner Michael Bogale described the restaurant as “our first born,” highlighting the deep personal connection owners have to their businesses.
The closure of Marathon, a Kensington district staple for 24 years, was met with sadness from long-time customers like Andrea Minor, who had been frequenting the restaurant with her family for 23 years. Minor shared that her daughter, now pregnant, had been craving Marathon’s food just two weeks before the closure.
Little Ethiopia in Los Angeles has a rich history. Fairfax Avenue has long been a melting pot of cultures, initially serving as a hub for the Jewish community in the 1950s and home to the original Farmers Market. The arrival of Ethiopian businesses in the 1990s gradually transformed the area into the cultural destination We see today.
Despite the challenges posed by the pandemic, Little Ethiopia continues to thrive, offering a taste of Ethiopia in the heart of Los Angeles. Destination Little Ethiopia is actively involved in community support, recently opening a donation center for wildfire relief, collecting new and gently used items from January 14th-18th, 2026.
The community is also looking to the future, with plans for a new Ethiopian Traditional Clothing Store. Lalibela Restaurant has also received recognition, being featured in the LA Times’ 101 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles list.
