Savoring the Flavors of Japan’s Past: Nikko Kanaya Hotel Revives Taisho-Era Curry Recipe
Nikko Kanaya Hotel (Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture), founded in 1873 (Meiji 6), is popular for its curry, which has been reproduced using a recipe from the Taisho period. The recipe was discovered and reproduced about 20 years ago, and it has become so well-established that customers say, “When you think of Kanaya, you think of curry.” Head chef Nakagawa Koji (51) is adamant that “It’s one of our signature dishes. We want to pass it down without ever changing the taste.” (Kyodo News – Katayama Ayumu)
Nikko Kanaya Hotel is said to be the oldest resort hotel still standing in Japan, and the building is a registered tangible cultural property of the country. Curry was added to the menu in 1904 (Meiji 37). After the Pacific War, the seasoning changed little by little to suit the tastes of the Allied soldiers who seized the building.
The recipe was discovered in a storehouse on the premises in 2003. Based on the characteristics of the paper it was written on, it was believed to have been passed down orally by successive head chefs and written down in the mid-Showa period.
Based on past menus, the hotel guessed that this was a flavor from the Taisho period, and decided to revive it to commemorate the 130th anniversary of the hotel’s founding. The ingredients were common ones, such as onions, but there were no quantities listed. The head chef at the time added modern touches, such as using coconut milk and pickle juice, resulting in a rich, sweet flavor.
It’s called “100-Year Rice Curry.” It’s currently served mainly for lunch, and comes in four varieties: beef, chicken, duck, and pork cutlet. This year marks 120 years since it first appeared, and Nakagawa says, “I want people to feel history through their food.”
Prices start from 3,500 yen with tea or coffee, while a beef-only set with salad and dessert costs 5,000 yen.
“Hyakunen Rice Curry” provided by Nikko Kanaya Hotel, July 2024, Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture
Chef Koji Nakagawa of Nikko Kanaya Hotel holds “Hyakunen Rice Curry” in July 2024 in Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture.