Shushu/Tong Redefines Masculine Style at Shanghai Fashion Week

Shushu/Tong presented its Fall 2026 collection at Shanghai Fashion Week, introducing menswear elements into a narrative centered on reconstructed identity and 1930s Parisian aesthetics. The collection, titled The Inventive Self, featured male models wearing tight green sweaters, furry shoulder pads, and buckled kiltie loafers, signaling a departure from previous streetwear trends in the Chinese menswear market.

The presentation occurred during a fashion week that concluded on April 7, 2026. The event took place as China’s economy showed early signs of a luxury rebound, with local designers adapting their product mixes and price points to align with current market realities.

The Inventive Self and 1930s Inspiration

The Fall 2026 collection was inspired by the film Violette Nozière, focusing on a working-class Parisian woman from the 1930s who was constrained by family and societal expectations. The designers used reconstructed silhouettes to symbolize the character’s claim over her own identity.

The collection integrated a theme of Girlish tension, reimagining elegant 1930s silhouettes for the contemporary woman. Key design elements included drop-waist dresses featuring knotted shoulders, undulating trims, and bow detailing. To maintain a girlish attitude within a theatrical framework, the designers incorporated three-dimensional florals and a fusion of lace and sailor collars.

Accessories played a central role in the collection’s storytelling. Brimmed-hat-inspired headbands served as the primary accessory of the season, referencing the character of Violette. Footwear included colour-blocked suede loafers and heels with upturned bow details, which the brand described as a rearrangement of dated girlish codes.

Expansion into Menswear

The inclusion of male models in the showcase highlighted a strategic shift toward the menswear market. By utilizing pieces such as furry shoulder pads and kiltie loafers, Shushu/Tong moved away from the dominant streetwear aesthetics that previously defined the sector in China.

This expansion coincides with a broader trend among Shanghai designers to reinforce brand identities through storytelling and universe building. The brand’s approach to menswear mirrors the reconstructed silhouettes seen in the women’s line, applying a specific vision of femininity and elegance to male forms.

The Shanghai Four and Market Trends

Shushu/Tong is part of a group known as The Shanghai Four, a term coined by WWD to describe the designers currently drawing the most global attention in the region. This group includes Shushu/Tong alongside Oude Waag, Samuel Gui Yang, and Mark Gong.

Observers noted that many designers during the Fall 2026 edition of Shanghai Fashion Week borrowed elements from Matthieu Blazy’s debut show at Chanel. These influences were visible throughout the week in the form of transparent bags, crisp shirts, and big drop-waist skirts.

The shift in design and business strategy reflects a broader effort by contemporary Chinese designers to navigate the early stages of a luxury rebound. This involves a more calculated approach to price points and product offerings to better suit the current economic climate in the world’s second-largest economy.

Brand Background

Founded in 2015 by Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang, Shushu/Tong focuses on redefining conventional notions of femininity. The brand has previously explored themes of psychosexual drama and the tension between desire and rejection, as seen in its Spring 2025 collection which was inspired by the film The Piano Teacher.

While previous collections utilized deep tones like chocolate brown and materials such as heavy silks, the brand has evolved to include more vibrant palettes and lighter fabrics, including chiffons, georgettes, and rayons, while maintaining structure through wool suitings and twills.