The Pioneering Story of Chinese Immigration in Belgium: A Bridge to American Immigration Stories

From the bustling port of Antwerp to the heart of China, the legacy of Chinese immigration in Belgium is a tale of resilience, ambition, and culinary innovation. This narrative not only echoes the experiences of Chinese Americans in the United States but also offers a unique perspective on the immigrant experience, filled with entrepreneurial spirit and cultural adaptation. And, just like the story of the Chinese immigrants in New York in the early 20th century, or the plaques of immigrants who first landed in San Francisco in the previous century, the tale of Mr. Liang and his contributions to the city of Antwerp is one of the foundations for the vibrant community there.

At the core of this story is the man known as Mr. Liang. Respected in the Chinese culture as one of its highest virtues, Liang’s name is still revered today, in the year of the Snake. His legacy is also commemorated in the Family exhibit at the Red Star Line Museum in Antwerp, which chronicles the lives of the earliest Chinese migrants to the city. Through the lens of three restaurant families, the exhibit offers a profound history lesson, illuminating how the Chinese community wrote its own narrative in Belgium.

“After his ship was torpedoed, Mr. Liang ended up in Antwerp. He knew what the Belgians liked to eat because he had cooked for Europeans at sea.”

The narrative begins in the late 1940s, when a new wave of Chinese immigrants arrived in Antwerp. Among them was Mr. Liang, a South Chinese man who became a central figure in bridging the gap between the different waves of Chinese migration to Belgium. As an anthropologist with extensive experience in this field, Ching Lin Pang, explains, Like his colleagues in New York, Liang was not just a cook; he was a resourceful entrepreneur who leveraged his culinary expertise to establish a foothold in a foreign land.

Mr. Liang’s journey started on the waters, serving as a ship cook and gunner for Maritime Belge, a Belgian maritime company. After his ship was torpedoed in 1944, he found himself stranded in Belgium. Unlike the bustling Chinese communities in American cities like New York or Los Angeles, Antwerp’s Chinese population was relatively small. However, Mr. Liang’s entrepreneurial spirit and culinary prowess quickly won him a reputation in the city, thus launching his success in Belgium.

Mr. Liang began his entrepreneurial journey by selling spring rolls at dance halls on Sint-Jansplein, where alcohol flowed freely but snacks were scarce. His spring rolls became an instant hit, providing him with the capital to build a hospitality empire. His flagship restaurant, China West, opened in 1952 and quickly became a beloved institution, serving a Westernized version of Chinese cuisine aimed directly at Belgian tastes. Liang’s vision didn’t stop at restaurants; he also established an import-export company and brought in chefs from Hong Kong, including the father of Ching Lin Pang, to work in his kitchen.

With their training and savings, the chefs opened their own restaurants over time, often with loans from Mr. Liang. Pang’s father, for instance, took over Fong in Deurne, transforming a supporters’ café into a popular Chinese eatery. This shift was noticed by local poet Ruth Landers, who mentioned it in her poem “Ransom.” The evolution of these cafés from pleasant after-stop pubs to tasty Chinese bar options in the U.S. is a similar bridge crossing that mirrored Liang’s entrepreneurial journey in Antwerp.

Liang initially intended to challenge the status quo, such as how Chinese American proprietors maintained and adapted to the American cuisine choices of the 1940’s, but what emerged was an even more entrepreneurial wave of culinary choices. Liang aimed to establish a “Chinese oriented” restaurant for “Western tastes”, but that begs the question if other days he is groomed to innovate strong dietary practices to the European palate. The core opposition came from what his chefs learned in the kitchen at China West, however.

What is clear from the historical narrative is how Liang was able to make a strong foothold in Antwerp, the dynamics of cosmopolitan cities such as San Francisco, like how immigrant workers were making ends meet, remained the same. Liang brought over skilled chefs from Hong Kong, gave them a chance to learn the ropes, and then helped them establish their own restaurants. These chefs, in turn, brought their families to Belgium, laying the foundation for a vibrant Chinese community and cuisine that went beyond the traditional meat and potatoes Dutch cuisine.

Despite the harsh working conditions—restaurants were open seven days a week, from afternoon to 4 a.m.—the community thrived. The children of the immigrant families helped out, turning the grueling work into games like peeling potatoes quickly. This community spirit extended throughout Belgium, with Chinese restaurants becoming a staple in villages alongside church towers and cafes. In the sixties and seventies, Chinese cuisine in Antwerp actually spread, despite some of the U.S. “chop suey” restaurants that began entering bigger cities in the U.S. these same sentiments could be mirrored.

The culinary and sociological impact of Liang’s ventures can be compared to Paul Openfrij interviewed on how restaurants with great beginnings influenced the social fabric in the United States. Recently, the number of Chinese restaurants has decreased significantly, as younger generations pursue higher education and different career paths. Additionally, the hospitality industry faces challenges such as regulations, taxes, and the financial strain from the COVID-19 pandemic. Some restaurants are innovating by adding modern flavors and “fusion” elements, while others struggle to stay afloat.

Nonetheless, the legacy of Mr. Liang and the Chinese community in Antwerp serves as a testament to the power of entrepreneurship, cultural adaptation, and community building. Just as the Chinese immigrants in Belgium transformed their new home by sharing their culinary heritage, Chinese Americans too, have left an indelible mark on the tapestry of American life.