Surfing’s Pivotal Era: 50 Years On
- Shaun Tomson, a surfing icon, shared insights into his pioneering days of tube riding with Rabbit Bartholomew, equipment innovation, and the evolution of professional surfing.
- He rode a 7-foot single fin with a narrow tail and single-to-double concave, allowing for acceleration inside the tube.
- Tomson noted that in the past, surfers only saw footage of their North Shore rides months later in magazines.
Shaun Tomson, surfing’s legendary innovator, reflects on the pivotal era of surfing, 50 years on. Discover Tomson’s insights, including groundbreaking tube riding techniques co-created with Rabbit Bartholomew, and the evolution of equipment, like his unique single-to-double concave boards. The surfing icon details the challenges faced by early pro surfers, including limited media coverage, and the sport’s change into a niche lifestyle fueled by sponsors. News Directory 3 highlights Tomson’s view of Hawaii as the ultimate proving ground where surfers chase greatness. Delve into the heart of the sport, from Tomson’s Pipeline experiences to the rise of wave pools and the olympics. Explore the core values of commitment, courage, and purpose that define today’s professionals. Discover what’s next for the generations who will push the boundaries of surfing even further.
Shaun Tomson Reflects on pioneering Tube Riding and Pro Surfing’s rise
Updated June 09, 2025
Shaun Tomson, a surfing icon, shared insights into his pioneering days of tube riding with Rabbit Bartholomew, equipment innovation, and the evolution of professional surfing. Tomson emphasized that while he,Mark Richards,and bartholomew were pushing boundaries,thay maintained mutual respect and camaraderie.
According to Tomson, equipment played a vital role. He rode a 7-foot single fin with a narrow tail and single-to-double concave, allowing for acceleration inside the tube. At Pipeline, his “pink banana” board featured unprecedented rocker, enabling deeper takeoffs and radical top turns.
The surfing landscape has changed dramatically. Tomson noted that in the past, surfers only saw footage of their North Shore rides months later in magazines. Today, surfers instantly learn from each other, leading to rapid skill advancement. He added that while today’s surfers progress faster with refined boards, they were going just as deep in his era.
Reflecting on his first Pipeline season, Tomson recalled the intensity of surfing the world’s most dangerous wave. An early wipeout at Sunset left him with slashed shins, but his Pipeline experience proved revolutionary, allowing him to take off later and turn harder.
Tomson acknowledged Hawaii’s increased commercialism but affirmed that the wave and the surfing experience remain unchanged. He no longer surfs there, recalling a final, forceful barrel ride at Backdoor that signaled the end of his Pipeline days.
He credits fred Hemmings as a visionary who recognized that bringing different nationalities together in Hawaii would ignite professional surfing. Tomson and Bartholomew envisioned big payouts, but surfing retained a niche status, supported by a dedicated fan base and corporate sponsors aligning with the surfing lifestyle.
Tomson believes surfing will remain a niche sport, offering young surfers viable careers. He also noted the rise of wave pools and surfing’s inclusion in the Olympics.
Tomson believes today’s pro surfers are as driven as his generation, possessing commitment, courage, and purpose. He noted the increased emphasis on fitness due to the radical and dangerous maneuvers.
He described his close collaboration with shaper Spider Murphy, involving hours of sketching and discussion. He also sought guidance from experienced Hawaiian shapers like Tom Parrish and Bill Barnfield, recognizing their understanding of Hawaiian waves.
Tomson emphasized Hawaii’s central role in the surfing world, stating that greatness in Hawaii was essential for any surfer seeking serious recognition.
Asked what he would tell his 19-year-old self, Tomson said he would advise himself to surf even more, cherishing those gorgeous experiences. He added that tube riding serves as a metaphor for life, living in the moment and embracing forward motion.
Regarding the legacy of his era and the film “Bustin’ Down the Door,” Tomson sees it as a story of inspiration, revolution, and the power of individuals passionately pursuing their love for surfing.
Tube riding is a marvelous metaphor for life. When you’re driving in the barrel and you’re in that state of flow and you’re riding on instinct, that’s how I lived my life.
What’s next
The surfing world will continue to evolve, with new generations pushing the limits of what’s possible on a wave, inspired by the pioneers who came before them.