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The Eighty-Six: Inside NYC’s Exclusive New Steakhouse | The New Yorker

The Allure of Exclusivity: Inside Manhattan’s Newest Power Dining Spot

Exclusivity, as any restaurant understands, becomes more desirable the harder This proves to attain. The Eighty-Six, a new steak house in Manhattan’s West Village, embodies this principle. From its opening last fall, it quickly became known as a clubby, celebrity-frequented destination—and notoriously difficult to get into. The restaurant is the latest venture from Catch Hospitality Group, the team behind the equally sought-after Corner Store.

The Eighty-Six features only eleven tables, contributing to its highly selective atmosphere. Initially, the author had little interest in securing a reservation. However, a friend with connections offered the possibility of a booking, instantly transforming the author’s perspective and creating an unexpected urgency to experience the restaurant.

The entrance to The Eighty-Six is marked by a heavy, green door with a wrought-iron grille and a peephole. The building itself has a rich history, previously housing the infamous speakeasy Chumley’s. Its address, 86 Bedford Street, is reportedly the origin of the slang term “eighty-six,” meaning “Get lost,” used during the Prohibition era.

Potato croquettes are topped with caviar.

The Eighty-Six is compared to another exclusive West Village establishment, 4 Charles Prime Rib, noting both are “very good steak houses.” The Catch team has renovated the space with dark woods, bronzed mirrors, and copper velvets, creating a luxurious ambiance. A two-top table in an alcove near the fireplace is said to have been a favorite of F. Scott Fitzgerald.

The restaurant offers a theatrical cocktail experience, such as an applewood-smoked Martini poured tableside over a stalagmite of ice created through a science-fair-style chilling process. However, the author notes the prevalence of diners filming content for social media might make indulging in such experiences less discreet.

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