Thom Browne Archivist Tianni Graham: Rise and Influence
# Preserving the Vision: Tianni Graham adn the Art of Archiving at thom Browne
Tianni Graham doesn’t just *manage* the Thom Browne archive - she breathes life into it. As the archivist for the celebrated American designer, graham is responsible for the meticulous preservation, documentation, and contextualization of the brand’s extensive collection, encompassing runway pieces, special collaborations, custom creations (including iconic met gala looks), and everything in between. Stepping into the role in 2021, she’s actively shaped its evolution, leveraging her expertise to meet the growing needs of the brand and the wider fashion world.
## The Science of Preservation
Graham’s work extends far beyond simply cataloging garments. It’s a deeply scientific undertaking, rooted in a profound understanding of material science and conservation. “Chemistry comes into play a lot as it pertains to how materials interact with each other,” she explains. This understanding dictates the archive’s strict “no plastic” policy. “It gives off gases, changes color, and speeds up the rate of deterioration.” A seemingly innocuous PVC skirt, such as, will inevitably cloud and yellow over time, and its emitted gases can accelerate the decay of nearby textiles. Isolation is key.
This meticulous approach underscores the archive’s role not just as a repository of past designs, but as a safeguard for the future of the brand’s legacy. Graham’s dedication ensures that these pieces remain vibrant and inspiring for generations to come.
## A Self-Referential World & The Creative Process
Being at Thom Browne offers a unique chance to delve deeper than a typical archival role. The brand is notably self-referential, with designers frequently drawing inspiration from its own history during the research and advancement phases. This constant internal dialog means Graham is often tasked with sourcing a ample number of archival looks – anywhere from 60 to 80 – to fuel the creative process.
Leading up to events like Paris Fashion Week, she meticulously pulls pieces based on specific details: down fill techniques, padding, distressing, and intricate embroidery. Her acute knowledge of the archive’s contents, combined with an understanding of the design team’s needs, is invaluable. Following presentations, market appointments, and editorial shoots, Graham meticulously documents each new piece, recording every detail for future reference. The Met Gala, with its flurry of archival pulls and custom requests, represents the peak of her busy season. She also oversees and negotiates loan agreements for exhibitions, a process that often unfolds over 9 to 18 months.
## Paving the Way for Future Generations
Graham’s success isn’t solely due to her technical expertise. Her established relationships within the industry allowed her to seamlessly integrate into the role and elevate the archive’s storytelling capabilities. She recognizes the significance of her position, particularly as a Black archivist in a historically underrepresented field.”For one, it’s vital to show people who look like me that it is possible, that you can create your own lane, or hop in this one, and I can mentor you and help,” she reflects. Inspired by mentors like Lee and Hartman, Graham is committed to paying it forward through her platform, Archive Alive, and other networking opportunities. She acknowledges the strength of the existing community of Black archivists, citing colleagues like Syreeta Gates and Camille lawrence, who have championed her work even when she wasn’t present.
Graham’s vision for Archive Alive includes expanding access to both education and professional opportunities for aspiring Black archivists, solidifying her commitment to fostering a more inclusive and representative future for the field. She isn’t just preserving the past; she’s actively building a more equitable future for those who will shape the archives of tomorrow.