Tiffany & Co. Watches: A 200-Year History of Time & Luxury

In 1837, Charles Lewis Tiffany and John B. Young opened Tiffany & Co. In New York City, initially as an “emporium” selling imported goods like umbrellas, soap, silverware, fragrances, and gloves. It took a decade for the store to offer its first timepiece, also imported. Another twenty years would pass before Tiffany debuted its first in-house watch, the Tiffany Timer, a milestone the company is currently celebrating as part of its bicentennial.

This history was shared this week during a visit to the 11th floor of the Tiffany Landmark flagship store on Fifth Avenue, where a Basquiat painting hangs near the elevators. Upstairs, in tastefully appointed private salons – known to host high-profile clients and serve excellent iced coffee – the evolution of Tiffany’s watchmaking efforts became clear. Tracing the history of watches, it turns out, is akin to immersing oneself in a period drama like The Gilded Age – a captivating escape that also offers a glimpse into social history. The earliest Tiffany chronographs, for example, were almost exclusively designed for men and were primarily pocket watches. Wristwatches were still decades away. At the time, it was considered improper for women to concern themselves with timekeeping, though managing a household certainly required it. However, by the late 1800s, women began carrying timepieces as decorative accessories, such as chatelaine watches that hung from the waist or pendants.

Today, Tiffany employs seven archivists dedicated to studying and documenting the brand’s extensive history. They actively search auction houses for antique pieces to enrich the collection and inspire future designs. On display were delicate, bejeweled, and enameled watches, some originally showcased at the 1878 World’s Fair in Paris, all serving as inspiration for the company’s 2026 releases.

While watches have evolved from simple time-telling devices to status symbols and objects of artistry, Tiffany’s latest offerings reflect this transformation. The company has drawn inspiration from the work of Jean Schlumberger, known for designs like the Bird on a Rock. Enamel work is a central theme, showcased in three new wristwatch variations featuring diamond dials enclosed within a rotating ring of enamel in Tiffany Blue or white, inspired by Schlumberger’s Croisillon bangle.

The blue version is crafted using the intricate paillonné technique, which involves applying layers of enamel to thin sheets of silver and firing them multiple times to achieve a unique cylindrical shape and luster. A workshop member demonstrated the process, showing the delicate silver sheet – so fragile it could be carried away by a breeze – and the mortar and pestle used to grind glassy blue stones into a sandy substance. The crystals, she explained, are ready for application when they “sing.” Around the outer circle are twelve 18-karat gold “cross-stitches,” a signature Schlumberger motif referencing his family’s textile heritage and symbolizing the bonds in one’s life. This design element also makes the watch a popular choice for wedding rings.

Despite the opulence of these watches – with some models, like those featuring diamond-encrusted straps, exceeding the cost of many homes – the rotating enamel band adds a sense of dynamism and whimsy, characteristic of Schlumberger’s style. The watches are a far cry from “quiet luxury,” instead embracing a bold and expressive aesthetic.

Tiffany & Co.’s journey in watchmaking, from importing timepieces to crafting its own, reflects a broader evolution in the industry. Founded in 1837, the company initially sold a variety of “fancy goods,” and it wasn’t until 1853, when Charles Lewis Tiffany assumed sole ownership and officially renamed the business, that it began to establish itself as a luxury powerhouse. The company’s innovations included introducing gold fashion jewelry in 1868 and the Tiffany Timer in 1866. The brand’s history is also intertwined with cultural moments, most notably its appearance in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany’s, which cemented the Fifth Avenue flagship store as a global icon.

The company’s commitment to design is evident in its collaborations with renowned artists like Jean Schlumberger and Elsa Peretti. Schlumberger, known for his nature-inspired designs, created pieces like the Bird on a Rock and vibrant enamel bangles. Peretti, who joined Tiffany in 1974, elevated sterling silver with organic forms like the Bone Cuff and Open Heart, redefining modern elegance. Paloma Picasso, who began designing for Tiffany in 1979, introduced bold colors and graphic motifs, including her iconic “X” design.

Tiffany’s enduring legacy is built on a foundation of innovation, craftsmanship, and a dedication to design. The company’s latest watch releases, inspired by its rich history and the artistry of Jean Schlumberger, demonstrate a continued commitment to pushing the boundaries of luxury watchmaking. The meticulous process of paillonné enamel work, combined with the symbolic significance of the cross-stitch motif, creates timepieces that are not only beautiful but also imbued with meaning.