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Food Critic’s Journey: Overcoming Alcohol and Sugar Addiction

In teh last part of a monthlong⁢ series, pete‌ Wells and experts suggest how ⁤to sidestep the perils of alcoholic or sugary beverages.

Reset Your Appetite ​ This ⁣is the ⁣last‍ of four articles by pete Wells ‌about how he ‌developed⁣ healthier eating habits. The⁢ first focused on reducing sugar consumption, the second on‍ stocking the home with the right foods and the third on mindful eating.

When the time came to purge some of the idiocy from the way I ate, I⁤ had no trouble swearing off duck skin,⁣ sticky buns, jelly ⁤beans and ‌other foods⁤ that are highly stimulating but ultimately insubstantial. The hole they⁣ left in‍ my ‌diet was not large and easily ‍filled with sensible choices.

I wasn’t ⁤all that upset, either, about ⁢having to find more nutritious stand-ins for white rice, pasta and other starchy foods that I relied ⁣on whenever my‌ stomach sounded like a box of wolverines. I don’t suck⁣ up bowls full ⁤of bouncy yellow ramen noodles as often as I used ‌to, but I do rely on soba made, deliciously and wholesomely, with pure buckwheat flour.

Cleaning up the way I drank was ⁤more challenging.

Sometimes it seemed to me that I ‌had⁢ a richer, more⁣ rewarding relationship with alcohol than ‌I did ​with all but a handful of​ humans. It was an inexhaustible field of study, an incandescent companion during⁢ great meals, ⁤a ‍reliable consolation on dull ‍ones. And it brought me close to my real friends, at least some of⁤ them, some of the time.

Over time, though, the rewards had become more equivocal and harder to ⁢justify. It wasn’t just the weight I gained, a predictable result of having a cocktail each night followed by about three glasses of wine or beer. ⁣They were, by this point, undeniable signs that⁢ my liver was overworked.

I slept badly⁣ with all that ​alcohol in my system,too,and it ⁣got worse as time went on. Anyone⁤ who stayed under the same roof told me my⁢ gasping and snoring weren’t just loud but frightening — a symptom ⁤of ‍sleep apnea,⁤ aggravated by all that drinking. I was always tired. Most mornings, I fell⁣ asleep in a chair after my second ⁤cup of coffee.

Into each of those cups, I stirred a teaspoon ‍of sugar and ‍into the ⁣two or​ three‌ I’d consume after the nap. my head howled ⁢for sugar to get‌ going in the morning, and howled loudest of all on days when I was also hungover.

The howling ⁤got ​quieter once I ⁣started going to sleep sober and⁢ stopped when I’d⁤ lost enough weight to control my sleep apnea. When I cut​ back⁤ on drinking,a considerable ⁤number of daily calories just ⁣went away‌ — some from the alcohol itself,some ⁣from the sugar in my coffee,and the rest ‍from the extra food ⁤that⁢ alcohol made me want to eat.

When​ I drink at ‌dinner,I am always a little hungrier. ⁣My ‌mind gets vague and unfocused — ⁢part of ‍the point of alcohol, of course, but it could make me lose ‌track of which glass‌ of wine I was on.

And‍ whatever resolutions I’d​ made about, say, sitting out the dessert ‌course ⁢would be undone once the alcohol ⁣soaked into my prefrontal cortex, the part of the brain that is supposed to be in charge ⁣of impulse control and ‍judgment.

A⁢ cup ⁢of coffee with whipped cream and caramel drizzle.

“Coffee by itself is a⁣ health ​food,” said Dr. David Ludwig, an endocrinologist and researcher at ‍Boston ​Children’s Hospital. But if you add sugar, “you undermine the⁢ health benefits.”credit…Connect Images/Getty Images

In his book ‌”The ⁤Hunger‌ Habit: Why We Eat When⁣ We’re Not ⁣hungry⁢ and How to Stop” Judson⁣ Brewer, a professor of behavioral and social sciences at Brown University, calls alcohol‍ a⁤ “double whammy” for eaters because‍ it clouds our judgment and fuzzes ‍up our perceptions.

He suggests​ that ‍people wait to assess the damage until the morning after.

“They want to ask in a nonjudgmental way, Was that drink‍ worth it? And just objectively, like a‌ scientist, measure the outcomes from that drink,” including how clearly they remember the meal, whether they were in control of how⁢ much they ate and drank, and how ⁢well rested they feel.

“And ⁢then do the‍ comparison to what happens when they don’t drink,” he said.

Even in sober ⁤moments, I didn’t give much ⁢thought to all ⁢the alcohol and sugar in the liquid ‍portion of my diet. I knew enough to stay away from ⁢soda, bottled sweet tea and other sugary beverages,⁤ one piece of ⁣advice on which nutritionists seem to be unanimous.

I would shudder when I saw baristas double-pump ⁣caramel syrup into somebody else’s latte. But ⁣I didn’t⁢ notice how closely my own coffee was starting to resemble melted ice cream or worry⁤ too much about how my first glass of wine made it easier to order more.

Looking at the changes I’ve made, I realize that I am one of the lucky ones. much as I enjoy alcohol, it was not a ‍compulsion ⁢for me. I sometimes have a glass ​or ‌two when I go out to eat, but I’m not tempted to have‍ another and ‌another and another.

I’m lucky,‌ too,​ that I ‍enjoy my coffee black, the way I drank⁤ it before driving my metabolism into the ditch.

“Coffee ⁣by itself‍ is a health‌ food,” said Dr. David‌ Ludwig, an endocrinologist and Last summer I experimented with⁣ Indian spiced ⁤lemonade, known as shikanji or nimbu pani, to see how ⁤sour ⁤I could drink it⁤ before I made a face. The‌ toasted cumin and black rock salt, with its sulfurous aroma ‍of boiled eggs, ‌distracted ⁢me from the reduction in sugar,⁤ up to⁢ a point. Maybe next ⁣summer, I’ll cut out the sugar ‍entirely, as some ⁢people in​ India⁤ do.

I’m into ​a soft drink served at Superiority ‌Burger‍ in ⁢Manhattan, the Sugarless⁤ Cape⁤ Cod⁢ – unadulterated cranberry juice mixed with⁢ a copious squirt of seltzer.It’s lean and potent,‌ and scours ‍the ‌mouth usefully⁢ between bites.

Unsweetened iced tea, that old standby for abstainers, has saved me many ⁤times. Like wine, tea has tannins, which provide‌ some friction for richer food to brush up⁣ against, although very strong tea can⁢ be overbearing at the table. I prefer⁤ the softer effect you get ⁢from cold brewing for ‌several hours. Oolong and hojicha respond⁢ well to this⁣ treatment. Korean barley tea⁣ gets along nicely with food, too, though, of course, it’s ‍not⁤ a true tea.

There are nights when I ⁤feel lucky to live in the glorious age when humanity finally figured out how ⁣to make nonalcoholic ⁤beer taste good. Drunk with⁣ a meal, it behaves more or less the way real⁤ beer does, though it’s not as good at sluicing away capsaicin,⁢ the stuff that makes chiles spicy. Nonalcoholic wine and cocktails haven’t come⁢ quite as far, but they are⁢ much better ⁤than they used to be.

But, I’m ‍glad to say, I still have wine ‌every ⁣week or⁢ two. And I haven’t fully ​given up martinis, the first drink I learned to love. ⁤ordering one at ‌a bar, feeling the ‍hair on the back of my​ neck stand up as the first sip takes hold, I feel like I’ve been reunited with an old friend. At the same time, it’s one of ​those old friends I don’t need ⁢to hang‌ out with more ⁢than two ‌or three times a ‍year.


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