Big Surfboards: Why You Need One
- A growing number of surfers are rediscovering the nuanced performance of boards shaped in the style of Skip Frye, finding speed and connection in seemingly unremarkable waves.
- The appeal of Skip Frye's designs-and those inspired by him-lies in their ability to generate surprising speed and momentum even in small, less-than-ideal surf conditions.
- "You're just standing there, but there's a lot more to it than standing there," explained Skip Frye, the San Diego surfer and shaper who has been refining these...
The Subtle Art of Riding Skip Frye Designs: A Return to Simplicity in Surfing
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A growing number of surfers are rediscovering the nuanced performance of boards shaped in the style of Skip Frye, finding speed and connection in seemingly unremarkable waves.
finding Flow in Small Surf
The appeal of Skip Frye’s designs-and those inspired by him-lies in their ability to generate surprising speed and momentum even in small, less-than-ideal surf conditions. Rather than relying on radical maneuvers, these boards encourage a flowing style where sections are linked, and the rail engages to drive a surfer down the line. The experience is described as deceptively simple,demanding precision and subtle adjustments.
“You’re just standing there, but there’s a lot more to it than standing there,” explained Skip Frye, the San Diego surfer and shaper who has been refining these designs for over 35 years.”You have to be in the right place on the wave, and real subtle movements going up and down. It’s a lot more subtle in the way you operate than in the modern-day moves or standard shortboard moves.”
The Importance of Subtle Movements
Surfers like Erin Ashley emphasize the importance of rail work and minute adjustments when riding these boards. Every small movement has a noticeable impact on the board’s performance, requiring a heightened awareness of wave dynamics and body positioning. This contrasts with the more forceful, often dramatic, maneuvers common on modern shortboards.
“These boards really make you look at how you’re surfing and how you’re connecting waves,” said Ashley. “Everything you’re doing, especially your rail work. And how every little movement makes more of a difference than the big movement.”
A Break from Performance Surfing
For some surfers, the appeal of Frye-inspired designs is a purposeful step away from the demands of high-performance surfing. While maneuvers like noseriding and hitting the lip are still possible, these boards prioritize trimming and connecting with the wave in a more fluid, graceful manner.It’s a chance to appreciate the simplicity and flow of surfing without the pressure to constantly perform.
“The reason I ride these boards? I just like the simplicity of them,” stated Devon. “You remove all the performance. Noseriding, hitting the lip, which I love to do, but it’s nice to take a break, step back and just trim.”