Citizens: Knowledge is Added, Recipes Made
- IRUN, Spain – A unique collaboration is blossoming in the Basque region, uniting traditional winemaking practices with a modern emphasis on transparency and environmental stewardship.
- Salah Eddine Bentaleb, a sommelier and winemaker, along with his partner Cristina Navarrete, operate Zazpi Mahats, a wine store in Irun.
- But for that to happen, the base ingredients must be of high quality.If the initial fermentation isn't right, the final product will suffer,"
Basque Region Vintners Blend tradition, Clarity, and Terroir
Table of Contents
Published: May 1, 2025
IRUN, Spain – A unique collaboration is blossoming in the Basque region, uniting traditional winemaking practices with a modern emphasis on transparency and environmental stewardship. This movement, spearheaded by innovative vintners, seeks to highlight the intrinsic connection between wine, its origin, and the land it comes from.
The Essence of Wine: Beyond Chemistry
Salah Eddine Bentaleb, a sommelier and winemaker, along with his partner Cristina Navarrete, operate Zazpi Mahats, a wine store in Irun. They champion wines that reflect a deep understanding of the winemaking process, starting with the raw ingredients. Bentaleb emphasizes the importance of knowledge in crafting exceptional wine.
“A good wine is one that tastes rich in the mouth. But for that to happen, the base ingredients must be of high quality.If the initial fermentation isn’t right, the final product will suffer,”
Salah Eddine Bentaleb, Zazpi Mahats
He illustrates the historical evolution of winemaking, noting that early humans initially consumed simple grape juice. Over time, through accidental fermentation, this juice transformed into something new and flavorful, sparking a sense of wonder.
Natural Fermentation: A Return to Roots
While acknowledging the historical reliance on spontaneous, natural fermentation, Bentaleb points out that modern winemakers possess a deeper understanding of the processes involved. Even though spontaneous fermentation is experiencing a resurgence, it is indeed now guided by scientific knowledge.
The influence of Louis Pasteur,who recognized wine as a healthy and beneficial beverage,is also noted. Pasteur’s discovery of microorganisms and yeasts revolutionized the understanding of alcoholic fermentation and contributed to improved aging and preservation techniques.
Transparency and Terroir: The Modern Winemaking Ethos
In the 21st century, a growing number of winemakers are embracing transparency in their craft. María Falcón, a winemaker with family roots in the industry, and Cristina Yagüe, a winemaker and agronomist, exemplify this approach with their “anonymous wineters” project. They began with an atlantic rosé using the native Galician Caja Reda grape and now produce an Albariño called Dunares, reflecting the Galician coast’s dune ecosystem. Their ‘three winter’ rests not only in stainless steel but in unbaked clay jars.
Transparency, in this context, signifies a commitment to showcasing the raw materials, origin, and vintage of the wine. It also encompasses respect for the environment and lasting vineyard management practices. This includes understanding when and how to prune vines, respecting the vineyard’s vegetative cycle, and determining the optimal harvest time.
Alberto (Gambra) and Javier, two winemakers from the Legardabidea winery in Valdizarbe Navarro, are also cited as examples of this movement. They produce artisan wines from ancient vineyards, combining knowledge, transparency, and experimentation.Their 2023 vintage is expected to make a notable impact on the market.
These winemakers are gaining recognition, with their wines featured in Michelin-starred restaurants in Gipuzkoa, such as Gandarias and Ganbara.Their dedication to quality and innovation is also evident in their support for local producers, including txakoli from Hondarribia and wines reminiscent of Burgundy.
The movement culminates in events like the upcoming gathering at the Great Wine Hall of Spain in Biarritz on june 10, where these vintners will showcase their wines and philosophies.
Basque Wine: Tradition, Transparency, and Terroir
Q: What’s unique about winemaking in the basque region?
A: In the basque region of Spain, a fascinating collaboration is underway. Vintners are blending traditional winemaking practices with a modern focus on transparency and environmental stewardship. This movement emphasizes the crucial connection between wine, its origin, and the land.
Q: What does it take to make a good wine?
A: According to Salah Eddine Bentaleb of Zazpi Mahats, a good wine has a rich taste. However, that richness starts with high-quality base ingredients. If the initial fermentation isn’t right, the final product will suffer.
Q: How has winemaking evolved over time?
A: Winemaking has a rich history. Early humans consumed simple grape juice. Accidental fermentation transformed it into something new and flavorful, sparking curiosity. Today,modern winemakers have a much deeper understanding of the involved processes,even with the resurgence of natural fermentation.
Q: What role did Louis Pasteur play in the history of winemaking?
A: Louis Pasteur’s work was revolutionary.He recognized wine as a beneficial beverage and discovered microorganisms and yeasts. His discoveries dramatically improved aging and preservation techniques.
Q: What does “transparency” mean in modern winemaking?
A: Transparency means that winemakers are committed to showcasing the raw materials, origin, and vintage of their wines. It also involves respecting the environment through sustainable vineyard management practices. This includes knowing when and how to prune vines, respecting the vineyard’s vegetative cycle, and determining the optimal harvest time.
Q: Can you give an example of winemakers embracing transparency?
A: María Falcón and Cristina Yagüe, through their “anonymous wineters” project, exemplify this approach. They began with an Atlantic rosé using the native Galician Caja Reda grape and now produce an Albariño called Dunares, reflecting the Galician coast’s dune ecosystem. Their ‘three winter’ rests not only in stainless steel but in unbaked clay jars.
Q: Are ther other examples of innovative winemakers in the Basque region?
A: Yes, Alberto (Gambra) and Javier from the Legardabidea winery in Valdizarbe Navarro are also recognized for their artisan wines. They combine knowledge, transparency, and experimentation, and their 2023 vintage is anticipated to make a notable impact.
Q: Where can I try these wines?
A: These innovative winemakers are gaining recognition.Their wines are featured in Michelin-starred restaurants in Gipuzkoa, such as Gandarias and ganbara. Also, you might have the possibility to taste them at the upcoming gathering at the great Wine Hall of Spain in Biarritz on june 10, where these vintners will showcase their wines and philosophies.