Maximilian Davis debuts Ferragamo collection in Milan
- He leaned heavily into desert references, workwear history, and 1940s tailoring following an inspirational visit to the Lee Miller exhibition at the Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris.
- The creative director shaped his latest Milan presentation around safari jackets, spice-rack colors, and body-skimming silhouettes.
- Davis explained that the inclusion of translucent rubber trench coats, tank dresses, and skirt suits served as references to nurses.
Maximilian Davis debuted his Ferragamo collection in Milan. He leaned heavily into desert references, workwear history, and 1940s tailoring following an inspirational visit to the Lee Miller exhibition at the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris.
Desert References and 1940s Tailoring in Milan
The creative director shaped his latest Milan presentation around safari jackets, spice-rack colors, and body-skimming silhouettes.
Early 20th-Century Uniforms on the Runway
Davis explained that the inclusion of translucent rubber trench coats, tank dresses, and skirt suits served as references to nurses. This choice maintained his ongoing design narrative focused on early 20th-century uniforms and workwear.
Heritage Details Meet Archive Footwear
The collection retained distinct Ferragamo signatures through statement leather belts positioned on raised waists and bosoms. Gancini clasp closures featured prominently on meaty leather jackets and vests.
Footwear updates brought new iterations of the F wedge—originally pioneered by founder Salvatore Ferragamo in 1947—alongside a fresh interpretation of the Vara pump. Tailoring choices explored the 1940s. The show opened with a strong-shouldered coatdress and high-waisted trousers, while sleeveless safari shirts and side-laced pencil shirts drew comparisons to Tom Ford’s historical tenure at Yves Saint Laurent.
Dramatic Styling and Menswear Swagger
Operating with a light hand, Davis introduced dramatic styling elements.
Scarf-like drapes were tossed tightly over the shoulder, while sheer silk swags lapped at the legs. The presentation also featured strong menswear pieces that matched the womenswear’s swagger and chic.
Milestones and Industry Speculation
Having passed his sixth anniversary at the Florentine luxury house, Davis has firmly established his design identity.
Even so, industry observers have noted the collection’s refined aesthetic could also read as a subtle audition for Saint Laurent in Paris. Leadership changes remain rumored there despite Anthony Vaccarello’s decade-long tenure.