Pulses: From ‘Survival Food’ to Modern Lifestyle Choice – A Transformation in Demand

ACCRA, Nigeria – As the Food and Agriculture Organization’s World Pulses Day is observed, a quiet but significant shift is underway in how these often-overlooked crops are perceived and utilized, particularly in low- and middle-income countries. The theme, “Pulses of the world: from modesty to excellence,” reflects a growing recognition of their potential beyond basic sustenance, encompassing culinary innovation, economic opportunity, and nutritional security.

Mercy Lung’aho, who leads the Food Security, Nutrition and Health Program at the International Institute of Tropical Agriculture (IITA), has witnessed this transformation firsthand. “I have tasted this transformation in three places, through one crop,” she notes, recounting experiences in Accra, Ghana; Jigawa, Nigeria; and in her own laboratory. In Accra, Bambara groundnut was served as a rich stew alongside banku, a traditional staple. In Jigawa, the same pulse was roasted and sold as a convenient street snack. And in her lab, researchers are developing Bambara milk as a modern alternative to almond and oat-based beverages.

This versatility – one crop, three distinct presentations, three different identities – encapsulates the potential Lung’aho describes. However, she cautions that despite this adaptability, a challenge persists: a growing preference among young consumers for meat over pulses. This isn’t simply a matter of nutrition or taste, but one of status, convenience, and perceived modernity.

Lung’aho identifies three key influences that must be addressed to increase pulse consumption, particularly among urban youth. First, she stresses the need for “aspirational framing, and identity.” Pulses are often positioned as foods of necessity, associated with rural life or scarcity, while meat is seen as a symbol of affluence and success. “This narrative must change,” she argues. “Pulses need to be repositioned as smart foods for performance, wellness, and longevity.” Presenting Bambara groundnut as a smoothie on television, for example, transforms it from a “poor man’s food” to a lifestyle choice.

Second, Lung’aho highlights the importance of “convenience and product innovation.” Meat’s dominance in modern diets is partly due to its accessibility in fast-paced urban environments – readily available in restaurants, packaged meals, and ready-to-eat formats. Pulses, traditionally requiring significant preparation time, often struggle to compete. “Expecting young consumers to sort, soak overnight, and cook pulses regularly is unrealistic,” she states. Innovation should focus on creating convenient products like pulse flours, roasted snacks, beverages, and spreads, integrating pulses seamlessly into existing lifestyles.

Third, she emphasizes the power of “social proof and cultural endorsement.” Young consumers are heavily influenced by peers, chefs, athletes, and social media influencers. Increased visibility and endorsement from these sources can elevate pulses’ cultural capital. “When chefs reimagine pulse-based dishes, when athletes speak about plant protein, when urban cafés serve pulse-based drinks without apology, pulses gain cultural capital,” Lung’aho explains. World Pulses Day, is not just about raising awareness, but about normalizing pulses in the modern imagination.

These influences translate into specific policy recommendations. Lung’aho calls for governments to prioritize pulses within agricultural and food policy, supporting diversified production through research, improved seed systems, and climate-smart agricultural practices. She also advocates for incentivizing private-sector innovation to develop convenient, youth-friendly pulse products. Crucially, she urges the integration of pulses into public procurement, school feeding programs, and urban food environments, ensuring they are visible, accessible, and appealing.

The goal, Lung’aho clarifies, is not to replace meat, but to promote balance, diversity, and resilience in food systems. Pulses offer a sustainable and nutritious alternative, supporting smallholder farmers, enriching soils, and strengthening local economies. “Few foods offer such a powerful combination of health, sustainability, and livelihoods,” she asserts.

The question, she concludes, is not whether pulses are inherently excellent – research from IITA-CGIAR demonstrates their nutritional value – but whether policies, markets, and cultural narratives will allow consumers to recognize and embrace their potential. February 17, 2026, on World Pulses Day, Lung’aho challenges stakeholders to answer that question with concrete action.

Mercy Lung’aho leads the Food Security, Nutrition and Health Program at the International Institute of Tropical Agriculture (iita.org). She received her Ph.D. In Food Science and International Nutrition from Cornell University and holds professional registrations with the American Society for Nutrition, the African Nutrition Society, and the Kenya Nutrition and Dietetics Institute.