With their heads held high, they clash between minimalist ease and on-trend eclecticism, exuding an air of restlessness and dread.
At the turn of the century, under the busy streets of the city and the busy traffic of the century, there are a series of representatives of elite female images, they push their heads high, creating a casual and fearless atmosphere, but they looking totally neat and tidy. fashionable. You can’t bear it Take a little more insight: such a fashion design style with the characteristics of the times – the collision between the minimalist ease and the popular eclecticism, has become the theme of the FENDI women’s spring and summer 2023. dress show.
Through the personal perspective and style proposal of brand director Kim Jones, together with the context of FENDI’s previous era, this season captured the pragmatism behind luxury from the brand’s point of view which has always emphasized “duality”. As she says: “One of the things that interests me most about FENDI is that it explores functional utility in interpreting femininity – women at FENDI are determined and enjoy busy and fulfilling lives.”
Looking back at Karl Lagerfeld’s dream-making period when he was in charge of FENDI, particularly his creations between 1996 and 2002, caught Jones’ attention: using the ingredients in pasta as inspiration, he created the spring ready-to-wear and the summer series from the season Prints, jewelery and accessories; it just so happens that this series of floral patterns from the FENDI archives and a logo born in 2000 have been extended by Jones to become the nostalgic feature of this series, and at the same time, reimagined in modern context. , many of which are strongly dedicated to the daily clothing needs of contemporary people.
“This season’s design theme is continuity. I would love to see designs from Karl’s perspective and explore how they can be improved visually and technically,” said Kim Jones.
In Karl Lagerfeld’s FENDI autumn-winter 1993-1994 collection, the classic Il Pazzo fur was born: brown weasel, sable, mink and beaver furs are hand-stitched in a variety of fabrics on a silk mesh base. A waterfall effect from “a cascata”.
And the effect of such a drape waterfall, in the hands of Jones, by interpreting fabrics that meet the needs of modern wear, presents another elegant and free scene. A new dimension of spirituality opens up: dynamic and feminine, natural and exquisite, creating very. modern feminine look.
And a City Lady, who walks freely in the city, needs to be nurtured by natural elements as well. The striking high saturation colors are not only on the ready-to-wear, but together with the design of the show, it seems to be in a strange and bright world.
A large number of bright green, bright pink, and cornflower blues are filled with a glow that is unique to high saturation colors. The striking bright colors break the cohesion of the original neutral tones and distort the color of the original leather material. keynote,
But at the same time, they are integrated with each other: through organic textured materials, such as cashmere and fur, shearling and leather, and FENDI’s proud craftsmanship, it presents an unprecedented sense of lightness without sacrificing a luxury benchmark.
Not only luxury and functionality, but another feature of the FENDI duality also represents the splicing of design techniques, as Karl Lagerfeld did in 1995 in the field of fur countless design experiments: cutting raw materials, processing techniques, and special treatment fabrics of it dominated this design period.
For Jones, this “splicing” is a combination of light leather and technical fabrics in this season’s presentation; a smooth mix of satin and mesh and matching, while also highlighting tennis shoes or rubber platform shoes and texture.
It is worth noting that the inverted letter “F” in FENDI First resembles an illusionary hanging beam that supports this season’s shoe design, reflecting Jones’ deep understanding of the delicate harmony between form and function at FENDI.
In Karl Lagerfeld’s early work, a new ready-to-wear columnar series was created with a vertical line design, which is the “power form” dress that countless women desire: the architectural structure is expressed from the graphic design, and’ r a take-off stand collar is used as the best display.
And Jones, who is good at drawing inspiration from FENDI’s history, further develops the unique fashion language of that period in the contemporary era. For example, he applies the wide oriental belt from FENDI’s autumn and winter haute couture series 2022 to this. spring and summer women’s clothing show, thereby enhancing the sense of shape of tailored clothing, showing a morphological structure full of femininity.
Kim Jones said: “Functionality and luxury are always at the forefront of my mind at FENDI. Incorporating heavy metal accents into incredibly soft pieces provides real functionality and fun.” The mosaic techniques that FENDI showed most prominently in the autumn 2000-2001 and winter series coincided with each other: geometric patterns and materials of various colors, or round or square designs, divided together to representing FENDI’s unique traditional craftsmanship.
When designing trousers, the insertion of such metal accessories has been intuitively displayed to maximize the effect The pocket features that originally belonged to overalls have been transplanted into the mix of drapey satin and technical fabrics. An atmosphere that belongs to modern wear arises spontaneously: with a bit of street casual and uninhibited, but without losing the comfortable functionality and the striking luxury essence.
The craftsmanship and duality that belongs to FENDI has never been absent in accessories and jewellery, and in the spring and summer series full of features of lightness, many interesting and experimental new designs have also been u add.
As Delfina Delettrez Fendi herself mentioned: “We explore the combination of rigidity and softness, quietly integrating the Logo into the functional structure that hangs each stone.” This concept is very much on display in this season’s accessories jewelry collection. Amazing colours: For example, the Peekaboo Mae, which has been cut in half, reveals its internal structure and becomes one of the main elements of this season; a steel letter F ornament sticks out of the bag and becomes the handle of the bag.
The iconic FENDI bag embodies the spirit of duality that runs through the collection.
High gloss leather meets crisp canvas; natural colored body covered in beautiful, eye-catching prints; sophisticated chain construction or simple pairs. Silvia Venturini Fendi said: “At FENDI, everything comes from the dialogue around the double F, which makes us accustomed to seeing things in pairs. Even handbags have become domestic: different sizes.” The extended concept has injected the pragmatic style fully into FENDI’s bag DNA, which is refreshing and recognizable at the same time.
Everything that has been expanded by the dual spirit of FENDI, whether present or past, luxury and functionality, or splicing and independence, considers that all design languages can merge and collide with each other, and on at the same time generating new inspiration.
Kim Jones understands very well how to use FENDI’s extensive archives and ingenious craftsmanship to constantly reshape and recreate this quality so that it can reflect what people wear and think in the times is of her. We never completely forget the past, this is like the basic principle of introductory fashion, it is always in a loop, but it continues to spiral up from this base, new things can emerge and appearances new, and they all point to one point in. the end: “The FENDI women of the moment are determined, enjoying a busy and fulfilling life.”
